The week following the Orthodox Easter we had a break from classes. During this vacation I spent a few days relaxing in Athens and then headed to Thessaloniki with Katie and Kelly. The appeal of Thessaloniki is that it is the second largest city in all of Greece (second only to, you guessed it, Athens). While we did not have a lot of time there, we saw everything there was to see. We visited the White Tower which was at one time a prison and rests along the coast, a replica of the Agia Sophia in Turkey, the Arch of Galeus, the Rotunda which was first a church, then a mosque, and now again a church, the Agio Demitrio, and the Museum of Byzantine Culture.
The White Tower wasn't open while we were there so we were not able to climb it, but from the outside it is impressive and stands very much on its own along the water. Similarly, the Agia Sophia was not open, but from the outside it is impressive, although not nearly as well maintained from behind and the sides as one would expect. The Arch of Galeus has beautiful frescos all around the base and its height is immense. The Rotunda is under severe construction so it did not quite have the grandeur I expect it does when fully restored. The Agio Demitrio was my favorite stop of the day. It is a grandiose cathedral with flowers everyone and beautiful icons and adornments. It was in no way tacky and had a real brightness to it that is often lacking in the churches in Greece. We were able to see the relics of Saint Demitrius and get some holy water from the golden holy water tap by the front altar. The museum was a bit of a rushed experience as it was about to close, but the coins, jewelry, icons, and costumes of Byzantine times were beautiful and gives on the sense of how beautiful and romantic the time period was.
We ate delicious dinners at great restaurants and made our way to a renowned bakery to get some tsureki, which were utterly delectable. Our hotel was very picturesque from the outside and was very beautiful at one point, I'm sure, but the rooms were a bit... well it's hard to explain really. High ceilings and beautiful molding, but blankets with cigarette burns and dull paint, but a very clean feel and smell. The mixed opinions were not an issue as we spent little time there and only one night. To get home we wound up taking an overnight train (without sleeping cars). Thankfully I can sleep on almost any moving vehicle and was seated next to someone who did not bother me with chitchat and kept his distance.
I hope to one day go back to Thessaloniki as I feel my time there was cut a bit short and it is a clean and energetic city. But I am very happy I got there for the time I did and it was a relaxing but busy vacation.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Easter in Athens
As most of you know, Greece is strongly identified with the Greek Orthodox Church. This means that religious holidays are national events. Easter is no exception. Easter in Athens was quite a spectacle for days. Although I did not experience it myself, on Good Friday there is a large procession at night throughout the streets of the city center in which they carry around a beflowered tomb of Christ. Saturday is another large event. During the day a small procession comes through the city of Athens with a flame leading the way. That flame is a flame that is the “light of Jerusalem” and is used at the evening service. At 11pm on Saturday a very large church service is held at most churches. I went to the service held at the biggest cathedral in Athens. It was so densely populated, that unless you were some dignitary or high religious leader, there was no way to get into the actual sanctuary. While speakers send the melodious sound of the priests’ chanting into the square, local Greeks were using the time more as a social gathering than a religious experience. The most intriguing display of the evening was the blatant combination of church and state. Upon the arrival of the President of Greece, about a half an hour late for the service, he received a military salute and a band struck up to announce his entrance. The cacophony of the precision of a military band with the fluidity of celebratory chanting was unexpected and unique. All I could think was that such a thing would never happen in the United States, a country that perpetually tries to avoid and argues over the combination of politics and religion.
Halfway through the service the light of Jerusalem is brought out into the middle of the square so that everyone may light their candle from the flame. Apparently the tradition is to light a candle and take it all the way home with you and make the sign of the cross in front of your house in order to bless it for the year. Most people left after receiving the light, but the service continued on for an hour or so following.
The next morning my parents, roommates Sara and Katie, and Katie’s mother and grandmother, and I all went to the morning service. It was a beautiful service with the priests dressed in their best vestments and flowers covering the church. The smell of lilies and incense filled the air and the sound of chanting was soothing. Although the service was entirely in Greek and I only understood bits and pieces of it, it still possessed a certain power and joy that only the Easter holiday can create.
After the service our group went to a local taverna for some traditional lamb roasted on a spit. It was delicious and the spirit of the holiday was evident among everyone in the restaurant. Overall, Easter in Greece was an amazing experience and awe-inspiring as one can see an entire nation (more accurately, the majority of a nation) joined by one strong belief. This type of unity does not exist in the United States, and from my experience that is both a positive and a negative thing about each country. I was very glad to get to experience such a big event in the course of Greek life as it has become a part of my life.
Halfway through the service the light of Jerusalem is brought out into the middle of the square so that everyone may light their candle from the flame. Apparently the tradition is to light a candle and take it all the way home with you and make the sign of the cross in front of your house in order to bless it for the year. Most people left after receiving the light, but the service continued on for an hour or so following.
The next morning my parents, roommates Sara and Katie, and Katie’s mother and grandmother, and I all went to the morning service. It was a beautiful service with the priests dressed in their best vestments and flowers covering the church. The smell of lilies and incense filled the air and the sound of chanting was soothing. Although the service was entirely in Greek and I only understood bits and pieces of it, it still possessed a certain power and joy that only the Easter holiday can create.
After the service our group went to a local taverna for some traditional lamb roasted on a spit. It was delicious and the spirit of the holiday was evident among everyone in the restaurant. Overall, Easter in Greece was an amazing experience and awe-inspiring as one can see an entire nation (more accurately, the majority of a nation) joined by one strong belief. This type of unity does not exist in the United States, and from my experience that is both a positive and a negative thing about each country. I was very glad to get to experience such a big event in the course of Greek life as it has become a part of my life.
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Sorry for No Blogs
Sorry for my delay in posting new blogs lately... be patient, in the next day or so I will post about Easter and my trip to Thessaloniki and one more to wrap up my stay here in Athens, Greece.
Tuesday, April 29, 2008
Syros and Mykonos
Two of my roommates (Katie and Kelly) and I decided to go on an abbreviated island adventure. We started our excursion with a night on Syros and ended it with two nights on Mykonos with a short trip to the Island of Delos. This was one of my favorite trips this semester. The islands have a certain personality that cannot be replicated on the mainland and they are extremely beautiful to boot.
Syros offers some amazing architecture that is great to observe as you walk around the small town. There is some good shopping and a very large town hall/courthouse building in the center. We did not spend too much time there, but we were there just long enough to appreciate its beauty and just short enough that we did not get bored. Our hotel was quaint and run by a friendly mother and daughter. The overall experience was a welcome one and a relaxing one that energized us for our time to follow on Mykonos.
Of all the places I have visited in Greece, only two have struck me as places I would absolutely want to live (thus far anyway). The first is Nafplio which I visited during orientation this semester and again a couple of weeks later. The second is Mykonos. It is a beautiful island that seems to be just the right size, not too big or too small. The beaches are beautiful, the people friendly, and the pelicans pink. The famous windmills are easy to find and small pedestrian walks easy to get lost in. For what is known as a major “party island” there is a real sense of community as you walk through the streets and shop owners call to their friends as they pass by on the streets. In the middle of the touristy shopping area is an elementary school with children running around everywhere and the narrow streets breed a sort of intimacy you cannot get other places.
Our hotel was an experience that made the island even more enjoyable. When we first arrived at the New Port, we realized that we were not expecting to arrive so far away from the main port. Suddenly our plans to walk to our hotel were not plausible and we had failed to make arrangements to get picked up. A woman was kind enough to try and help us find a cab, but when our attempts failed, she very subtly and politely offered to take us to her hotel since we had not already paid for our other reservations. She had a car at port already and told us her place was only minutes walk from the main city, plus it would be less expensive. So we accepted her offer and got in the car. Her husband joined us, Bobby, and he started talking to us about where we were from and told us a lot about the island. It turns out he used to live in Boston and knew a lot about the United States. He was extremely helpful and told us if we needed anything to come and find him and recommended we rent ATVs to get around the island which he would also help us do. He kept his word and when we were ready to rent our ATVs to tour the beaches of Mykonos he had a guy come and pick us up from our room and take us to the place to rent them at a good price. He also gave us a ride back to the hotel when we were walking back one night from dinner and he passed us on the road. Both him and his wife were very warm and made our stay extremely pleasant and he was always good for a laugh. When I asked Bobby how long he had lived on Mykonos his reply was “In 1978 I came for a weekend… it’s not over yet” and upon our departure from him he told us “You be sure to stay with us again when you come back… and you will come back”. Clearly he, as well as many other people we met, have a real love for the island, a love that I believe I have developed a little bit of myself.
The island is extremely diverse in terms of both animals and people. While there, I saw fish, goats, cows, yaks, chickens, cats, dogs, ostriches, and, of course, the pink pelicans. These birds are massive and just sleep out by the tavernas. They let you take pictures of them and even let you pet them (I know from experience). The reason they are pink is the same reason flamingos are pink, because of the food they eat. And the people, they are just as unique and diverse. In one night my roommates and I met people from Greece, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. The evening entailed a plethora of accents and a lot of interesting personalities. It was great seeing so many people from different places all come together on this one small island just to have a good time and relax. They were all very friendly and spoke English which is always a plus.
The Island of Delos is an island that is nothing but an archaeological site. No one lives there. It is a vast expanse of ancient rocks, old temples, and relatively well-preserved statues. Sadly the island is not well mapped out for visitors and few signs explain exactly what you’re looking at, but its sheer size was impressive enough. The weather was less than pleasant as it was cold and windy (so windy my camera, which was set up to take a picture of us, got knocked down and tumbled down a column and some rocks… my screen and zoom no longer work). We made the best of it though and saw a good portion of the island before heading back to the small boat that taxied us back and forth from Mykonos.
My parents were doing an island cruise at the same time that I was on Mykonos, so they were able to join us for a couple of hours and take a tour as well as do some shopping, a nice interjection into my stay there. The following day, our last day there, it was beautiful, warm, and sunny so we took our ATVs to the beach and laid out for about an hour and a half. Waiters came around and asked if we wanted drinks as we lay on the long beach chairs provided to the public and the slight breeze off the water kept us from getting to hot. It was really the perfect day and a great way to end a fabulous stay on an amazing island. We dropped off our ATVs and got on our ferry to head back to Athens. We were tired, but contented, and even the huge influx of loud and obnoxious Greek high school students on the ferry after a stop could spoil our satisfaction with the weekend.
When I return to Greece, I will definitely be going back to Mykonos, there is no doubt.
Syros offers some amazing architecture that is great to observe as you walk around the small town. There is some good shopping and a very large town hall/courthouse building in the center. We did not spend too much time there, but we were there just long enough to appreciate its beauty and just short enough that we did not get bored. Our hotel was quaint and run by a friendly mother and daughter. The overall experience was a welcome one and a relaxing one that energized us for our time to follow on Mykonos.
Of all the places I have visited in Greece, only two have struck me as places I would absolutely want to live (thus far anyway). The first is Nafplio which I visited during orientation this semester and again a couple of weeks later. The second is Mykonos. It is a beautiful island that seems to be just the right size, not too big or too small. The beaches are beautiful, the people friendly, and the pelicans pink. The famous windmills are easy to find and small pedestrian walks easy to get lost in. For what is known as a major “party island” there is a real sense of community as you walk through the streets and shop owners call to their friends as they pass by on the streets. In the middle of the touristy shopping area is an elementary school with children running around everywhere and the narrow streets breed a sort of intimacy you cannot get other places.
Our hotel was an experience that made the island even more enjoyable. When we first arrived at the New Port, we realized that we were not expecting to arrive so far away from the main port. Suddenly our plans to walk to our hotel were not plausible and we had failed to make arrangements to get picked up. A woman was kind enough to try and help us find a cab, but when our attempts failed, she very subtly and politely offered to take us to her hotel since we had not already paid for our other reservations. She had a car at port already and told us her place was only minutes walk from the main city, plus it would be less expensive. So we accepted her offer and got in the car. Her husband joined us, Bobby, and he started talking to us about where we were from and told us a lot about the island. It turns out he used to live in Boston and knew a lot about the United States. He was extremely helpful and told us if we needed anything to come and find him and recommended we rent ATVs to get around the island which he would also help us do. He kept his word and when we were ready to rent our ATVs to tour the beaches of Mykonos he had a guy come and pick us up from our room and take us to the place to rent them at a good price. He also gave us a ride back to the hotel when we were walking back one night from dinner and he passed us on the road. Both him and his wife were very warm and made our stay extremely pleasant and he was always good for a laugh. When I asked Bobby how long he had lived on Mykonos his reply was “In 1978 I came for a weekend… it’s not over yet” and upon our departure from him he told us “You be sure to stay with us again when you come back… and you will come back”. Clearly he, as well as many other people we met, have a real love for the island, a love that I believe I have developed a little bit of myself.
The island is extremely diverse in terms of both animals and people. While there, I saw fish, goats, cows, yaks, chickens, cats, dogs, ostriches, and, of course, the pink pelicans. These birds are massive and just sleep out by the tavernas. They let you take pictures of them and even let you pet them (I know from experience). The reason they are pink is the same reason flamingos are pink, because of the food they eat. And the people, they are just as unique and diverse. In one night my roommates and I met people from Greece, Australia, New Zealand, and Canada. The evening entailed a plethora of accents and a lot of interesting personalities. It was great seeing so many people from different places all come together on this one small island just to have a good time and relax. They were all very friendly and spoke English which is always a plus.
The Island of Delos is an island that is nothing but an archaeological site. No one lives there. It is a vast expanse of ancient rocks, old temples, and relatively well-preserved statues. Sadly the island is not well mapped out for visitors and few signs explain exactly what you’re looking at, but its sheer size was impressive enough. The weather was less than pleasant as it was cold and windy (so windy my camera, which was set up to take a picture of us, got knocked down and tumbled down a column and some rocks… my screen and zoom no longer work). We made the best of it though and saw a good portion of the island before heading back to the small boat that taxied us back and forth from Mykonos.
My parents were doing an island cruise at the same time that I was on Mykonos, so they were able to join us for a couple of hours and take a tour as well as do some shopping, a nice interjection into my stay there. The following day, our last day there, it was beautiful, warm, and sunny so we took our ATVs to the beach and laid out for about an hour and a half. Waiters came around and asked if we wanted drinks as we lay on the long beach chairs provided to the public and the slight breeze off the water kept us from getting to hot. It was really the perfect day and a great way to end a fabulous stay on an amazing island. We dropped off our ATVs and got on our ferry to head back to Athens. We were tired, but contented, and even the huge influx of loud and obnoxious Greek high school students on the ferry after a stop could spoil our satisfaction with the weekend.
When I return to Greece, I will definitely be going back to Mykonos, there is no doubt.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
Meteora
Originally I was not going to go to Meteora because it was a mandatory trip for two classes, both of which I am not in, and the extra spots were already filled before I had even really considered going. But the more I heard about it, the more I wished I could go and then my lucky day came. And e-mail was sent out by our Student Services Director, Kim, saying there were two spots now open on the trip and to e-mail if interested. I jumped on the opportunity and got myself signed up. I thank my lucky stars it worked out that way, because it was an absolutely amazing trip. First, let me explain what exactly Meteora is…
A long long long time ago the land that is now called “Meteora” was covered by the sea. Because of the presence of water for so many years, the mountains that are there now have a very unique look. They are greatly stratified with different layers of sediment and have holes in the sides that sea creatures used to live in. Also, unlike the mountains most of us are used to, these mountains are very much independent of each other. They do not connect in a sort of range, but rather stand each on its own with tall, steep, and smoothed sides all around.
At first, these massive rocks were inhabited by spiritual hermits trying to find peace and quiet for the purpose of prayer and reflection. Rather to their dismay they developed certain followings and to accommodate these people, monasteries were established on the top of the rocks, built into the sides. Since then the monasteries have been beautifully maintained and are still inhabited and run by monks and nuns (never in the same monastery though). Our trip included visits to two of these monasteries as well as going to Vespers (the evening service) at a local church. We were fortunate enough to get to speak to a monk, a nun, and a priest. They were all very informative, friendly, and left us with a blessing, but my favorite by far was our encounter with the priest.
He did not speak any English so everything had to be translated for us, but his first comments to us were about how although in the old days people who were not baptized Orthodox had to remain in the Narthex, he believes that we are all God’s children and who is he to say who is and is not welcome in God’s house, thus inviting us to the upcoming service. When he asked about where we were from and heard America he made a short comment about it, one that all of us, with the little Greek we know, could actually understand so we all laughed. He was quite taken aback by our response and gave a hearty laugh at our reaction. During the service, while the Orthodox (and myself as I found it the most comfortable based on my own upbringing in regards to visiting others churches) stand during the entire service, most of the students in our group chose to sit and the priest very discreetly motioned for them to stand during the incense portion of the service and then signaled to them when they could sit down again. He later explained why he found that portion of the service important for them to stand and was very gracious about the whole thing. Vibrant and passionate in the way he spoke, what he said was surprisingly open-minded for an Orthodox priest, especially of his age and it was a greatly refreshing experience. I know that not quite everything he was saying was getting translated to me because he went into great theological discussion and used many flowery words that became difficult for my professors to translate, but for me the importance of what he was saying was the way he was saying it. Always warm and welcoming and looking to educate not reprimand us in response to our lack of knowledge about the church. This was by far my favorite experience during the entire trip to Meteora and it alone made the whole trip worthwhile. Of course there were great views, interesting facts, and good company that also made the trip extremely enjoyable, but this was the icing on the cake.
A long long long time ago the land that is now called “Meteora” was covered by the sea. Because of the presence of water for so many years, the mountains that are there now have a very unique look. They are greatly stratified with different layers of sediment and have holes in the sides that sea creatures used to live in. Also, unlike the mountains most of us are used to, these mountains are very much independent of each other. They do not connect in a sort of range, but rather stand each on its own with tall, steep, and smoothed sides all around.
At first, these massive rocks were inhabited by spiritual hermits trying to find peace and quiet for the purpose of prayer and reflection. Rather to their dismay they developed certain followings and to accommodate these people, monasteries were established on the top of the rocks, built into the sides. Since then the monasteries have been beautifully maintained and are still inhabited and run by monks and nuns (never in the same monastery though). Our trip included visits to two of these monasteries as well as going to Vespers (the evening service) at a local church. We were fortunate enough to get to speak to a monk, a nun, and a priest. They were all very informative, friendly, and left us with a blessing, but my favorite by far was our encounter with the priest.
He did not speak any English so everything had to be translated for us, but his first comments to us were about how although in the old days people who were not baptized Orthodox had to remain in the Narthex, he believes that we are all God’s children and who is he to say who is and is not welcome in God’s house, thus inviting us to the upcoming service. When he asked about where we were from and heard America he made a short comment about it, one that all of us, with the little Greek we know, could actually understand so we all laughed. He was quite taken aback by our response and gave a hearty laugh at our reaction. During the service, while the Orthodox (and myself as I found it the most comfortable based on my own upbringing in regards to visiting others churches) stand during the entire service, most of the students in our group chose to sit and the priest very discreetly motioned for them to stand during the incense portion of the service and then signaled to them when they could sit down again. He later explained why he found that portion of the service important for them to stand and was very gracious about the whole thing. Vibrant and passionate in the way he spoke, what he said was surprisingly open-minded for an Orthodox priest, especially of his age and it was a greatly refreshing experience. I know that not quite everything he was saying was getting translated to me because he went into great theological discussion and used many flowery words that became difficult for my professors to translate, but for me the importance of what he was saying was the way he was saying it. Always warm and welcoming and looking to educate not reprimand us in response to our lack of knowledge about the church. This was by far my favorite experience during the entire trip to Meteora and it alone made the whole trip worthwhile. Of course there were great views, interesting facts, and good company that also made the trip extremely enjoyable, but this was the icing on the cake.
Saturday, April 26, 2008
Corinth
Let me start this blog entry by giving an itinerary of my school trip to Corinth and a number of other places near and around the Peloponnese.
Thursday: Meet at the Center and board the bus at approximately 9am. First stop- a cave at Kapsia. From there we made our way to Agia Foteini, the “Wonky Church” that we were given a tour of by the architect himself and this stop included a picnic lunch. Next stop the Spyropoulos vineyard where we were given a tour and had a tasting of their various wines. After making our wine purchases and enjoying the tasting which included their homemade cheese, we piled back on the bus and headed to our first hotel.
Friday: First thing we drive through the Vouraikos Gorge on the bus. We were planning on taking a nice scenic train ride, but the train tracks have been under construction for over a year and are still not complete. The bus took us through the gorge to Kalavryta, a monastery where the rebels gathered and, blessed by a priest there, they took an oath to defend their country against Ottoman rule. Next we went to a World War II monument that commemorated the lives of thousands of Greeks who were killed by the Germans; most casualties were men, who were shot to death, but many women and children died after being locked in a school and then the building set on fire. From this rather depressing and somber site I went on the optional trip to Perahora, a sanctuary of Hera which is the only ancient site that the general public is actually allowed to walk all over. We got to experience a traditional Greek dinner party by lying on the ruins of the dining room and being shown how they would have sat/lain and drank the night away.
Saturday: The day started off with the strong smell of cheese as we entered a cheese factory in Limnos. The stench was hard to bare and the cheese was not the best I have ever had, but the men working there and giving us the tour were colorful and interesting to listen to. From there we headed to greener pastures, literally. Our next stop was a goat and sheep farm at which we got to meet a genuine shepherd. He was very nice and allowed people pick up and hold the baby goats and sheep. After scraping the mud off of our shoes and trying to recover from the stench, we made our way to Epidavros which is an ancient site where healing was performed and contains this amazing theater with the most spectacular acoustics I’ve ever heard. If you drop a coin in the very center of the stage, you can hear it at every point in the stadium seating. Then it was back to Loutraki for the evening, the town we stayed in for two nights that is known for its fresh spring water which you can find bottled all over Greece.
Sunday: We finally made our way to Corinth on the last day and the ancient site was overwhelming to say the least. Our tour guide was one of the people excavating the site presently and a former Arcadia Athens student. She was very knowledgeable and helped us make sense of the expansive set of ruins. From there we made our way up to the AcroCorinth which is a giant fortress at the top of Corinth. The walls were overbearing and intimidating, making it easy to understand how it is that the fortress has never been seized through force in its entire history. We were fortunate enough to get a tour with Tim Gregory, an expert on the site who has written a number of history books on Corinth. A bit of hiking was involved, but it was all well worth the effort and we had the opportunity to see a “sacred” spring on the very top of the mountain which was covered at some point in history by a certain population, the name of whom presently escapes me, so that one must climb down a steep staircase and slowly make his/her way down the sloping ground to the side of the small pond. Once we made it back to the bus it was time to head back to Athens after a long and tiring weekend.
While there is so much to talk about in regards to this excursion, I think it best to just give my overall comments so that my audience does not get bored by the sheer length of this entry. I am extremely grateful that the school set up such a trip because we saw places I would not normally get to see and probably would not have thought about going to see on my own. It is also useful having people who can translate with you. It was also very reminiscent of our first trip together as a large group during orientation and the nostalgia was welcome. There was definitely a greater sense of the “real Greece” getting to see more of the average village person making a living than the standard Athenian who has adapted to an urban environment. It was a very pure experience and one I won’t soon forget. Although there were not too many outstanding moments for me, I was sure to document it thoroughly on film and it was a trip filled with excursions I feel I should have made during my time in Greece either way, so it was successful in that regard.
My apologies for the more factual and laundry list style of this blog, but it can be difficult to write with great detail on such an immense experience that, especially in hindsight, did not strike any particular chord with me. But check back for when I post on my trips to Meteora and Mykonos, they will be much more entertaining and anecdotal, I guarantee it.
Thursday: Meet at the Center and board the bus at approximately 9am. First stop- a cave at Kapsia. From there we made our way to Agia Foteini, the “Wonky Church” that we were given a tour of by the architect himself and this stop included a picnic lunch. Next stop the Spyropoulos vineyard where we were given a tour and had a tasting of their various wines. After making our wine purchases and enjoying the tasting which included their homemade cheese, we piled back on the bus and headed to our first hotel.
Friday: First thing we drive through the Vouraikos Gorge on the bus. We were planning on taking a nice scenic train ride, but the train tracks have been under construction for over a year and are still not complete. The bus took us through the gorge to Kalavryta, a monastery where the rebels gathered and, blessed by a priest there, they took an oath to defend their country against Ottoman rule. Next we went to a World War II monument that commemorated the lives of thousands of Greeks who were killed by the Germans; most casualties were men, who were shot to death, but many women and children died after being locked in a school and then the building set on fire. From this rather depressing and somber site I went on the optional trip to Perahora, a sanctuary of Hera which is the only ancient site that the general public is actually allowed to walk all over. We got to experience a traditional Greek dinner party by lying on the ruins of the dining room and being shown how they would have sat/lain and drank the night away.
Saturday: The day started off with the strong smell of cheese as we entered a cheese factory in Limnos. The stench was hard to bare and the cheese was not the best I have ever had, but the men working there and giving us the tour were colorful and interesting to listen to. From there we headed to greener pastures, literally. Our next stop was a goat and sheep farm at which we got to meet a genuine shepherd. He was very nice and allowed people pick up and hold the baby goats and sheep. After scraping the mud off of our shoes and trying to recover from the stench, we made our way to Epidavros which is an ancient site where healing was performed and contains this amazing theater with the most spectacular acoustics I’ve ever heard. If you drop a coin in the very center of the stage, you can hear it at every point in the stadium seating. Then it was back to Loutraki for the evening, the town we stayed in for two nights that is known for its fresh spring water which you can find bottled all over Greece.
Sunday: We finally made our way to Corinth on the last day and the ancient site was overwhelming to say the least. Our tour guide was one of the people excavating the site presently and a former Arcadia Athens student. She was very knowledgeable and helped us make sense of the expansive set of ruins. From there we made our way up to the AcroCorinth which is a giant fortress at the top of Corinth. The walls were overbearing and intimidating, making it easy to understand how it is that the fortress has never been seized through force in its entire history. We were fortunate enough to get a tour with Tim Gregory, an expert on the site who has written a number of history books on Corinth. A bit of hiking was involved, but it was all well worth the effort and we had the opportunity to see a “sacred” spring on the very top of the mountain which was covered at some point in history by a certain population, the name of whom presently escapes me, so that one must climb down a steep staircase and slowly make his/her way down the sloping ground to the side of the small pond. Once we made it back to the bus it was time to head back to Athens after a long and tiring weekend.
While there is so much to talk about in regards to this excursion, I think it best to just give my overall comments so that my audience does not get bored by the sheer length of this entry. I am extremely grateful that the school set up such a trip because we saw places I would not normally get to see and probably would not have thought about going to see on my own. It is also useful having people who can translate with you. It was also very reminiscent of our first trip together as a large group during orientation and the nostalgia was welcome. There was definitely a greater sense of the “real Greece” getting to see more of the average village person making a living than the standard Athenian who has adapted to an urban environment. It was a very pure experience and one I won’t soon forget. Although there were not too many outstanding moments for me, I was sure to document it thoroughly on film and it was a trip filled with excursions I feel I should have made during my time in Greece either way, so it was successful in that regard.
My apologies for the more factual and laundry list style of this blog, but it can be difficult to write with great detail on such an immense experience that, especially in hindsight, did not strike any particular chord with me. But check back for when I post on my trips to Meteora and Mykonos, they will be much more entertaining and anecdotal, I guarantee it.
Sunday, April 6, 2008
Independence Day... Greece Style
After our return from Santorini, my apartmentmates and I decided to take the couple of days we had off from classes to relax and enjoy some good old Greek nationalism. On Monday the city of Athens put on a parade much like the ones we see in the United States around Memorial Day with all different ages marching and playing instruments, as well as riding in floats and throwing candy into the throng of spectators along the rode.
Tuesday, the official Independence Day of Greece (March 25th) brought about a different type of parade. The Prime Minister himself said that it would be a display of Greek military strength and power. It was exactly that. Representatives from every branch of the military were there. Army, navy, air force, police, and firefighters all marched in unison down the streets of the city center. Tanks and machine guns, medical vans and firetrucks all rolled across the pavement with great verocity and might, shaking the ground as they passed. Overhead flew fighter jets and helicopters as men and women in all manner of dressed marched in front of us. There were people in carrying guns, men in wetsuits, people carrying rocking climbing gear, others in dressed in white and carrying skiis. A display of Greece's defense against biological warfare could be seen in the people dressed in gas masks and plastic jumpsuits. The firefighters wore helmets of silver that reflected the sun, while others marched in full silver, heat-repellent suits. This display was impressive and transfixing. It certainly met its goal of inspiring a strong sense of pride as well as confidence in the Greek military and the stability of Greece as an independent nation.
It is interesting to note the contrast of such a parade in Greece versus the typical Independence Day celebration in the States. While there was, to some degree, the same amount of merriment and holiday, America would not so readily display all of its weapons and various military strengths to the general public, where it can be easily photographed and studied. There was something very Greek about the parade and its grandeur. The emphasis on Greece and its strength is a trait visible in the everyday actions of Greeks, so this parade was a hyperbolized version of this. And nothing made it more clear to me that I was in Greece than the passing of the guards. Decked out in their traditional dress, all towering feet above my head, their distinct look and style of marching took away any doubt or sudden lapse of awareness from the audience that they were, in fact, in Greece.
I am so glad I got to see the parade and feel the strong presence of Greek pride (stronger than I've felt before). It was an experience I will not soon forget and I only wish that my words could do it the justice it deserves.
Tuesday, the official Independence Day of Greece (March 25th) brought about a different type of parade. The Prime Minister himself said that it would be a display of Greek military strength and power. It was exactly that. Representatives from every branch of the military were there. Army, navy, air force, police, and firefighters all marched in unison down the streets of the city center. Tanks and machine guns, medical vans and firetrucks all rolled across the pavement with great verocity and might, shaking the ground as they passed. Overhead flew fighter jets and helicopters as men and women in all manner of dressed marched in front of us. There were people in carrying guns, men in wetsuits, people carrying rocking climbing gear, others in dressed in white and carrying skiis. A display of Greece's defense against biological warfare could be seen in the people dressed in gas masks and plastic jumpsuits. The firefighters wore helmets of silver that reflected the sun, while others marched in full silver, heat-repellent suits. This display was impressive and transfixing. It certainly met its goal of inspiring a strong sense of pride as well as confidence in the Greek military and the stability of Greece as an independent nation.
It is interesting to note the contrast of such a parade in Greece versus the typical Independence Day celebration in the States. While there was, to some degree, the same amount of merriment and holiday, America would not so readily display all of its weapons and various military strengths to the general public, where it can be easily photographed and studied. There was something very Greek about the parade and its grandeur. The emphasis on Greece and its strength is a trait visible in the everyday actions of Greeks, so this parade was a hyperbolized version of this. And nothing made it more clear to me that I was in Greece than the passing of the guards. Decked out in their traditional dress, all towering feet above my head, their distinct look and style of marching took away any doubt or sudden lapse of awareness from the audience that they were, in fact, in Greece.
I am so glad I got to see the parade and feel the strong presence of Greek pride (stronger than I've felt before). It was an experience I will not soon forget and I only wish that my words could do it the justice it deserves.
Sunday, March 30, 2008
Cape Souneio... A bit out of order
So I completely forgot to write a blog post about my trip to Cape Souneio.
We went with our program director, Jan, and she took us to these old silver mines first and then we hiked, and in some spots mountain-climbed, to a bay and then took a bus up to the temple. The hike was interesting and a bit prickly at times, but the views from the top (after scaling a rock-face, no lie) made up for the scratches. And the Temple of Poseidon was absolutely spectacular. It is so complete that you really feel like you can imagine what it was like up there. There is no doubt that it was meant to serve as an altar to the gods because its sheer size alone is imposing and grandiose. Thus far, it is my favorite ancient temple, and the views of the sea from all different sides were what I have come to expect from all of Greece… breathtaking.
While there isn’t much for me to really comment on about the day trip, it was a sight I won’t soon forget, and one I think that everyone should see should they make it to Greece in their lifetimes.
We went with our program director, Jan, and she took us to these old silver mines first and then we hiked, and in some spots mountain-climbed, to a bay and then took a bus up to the temple. The hike was interesting and a bit prickly at times, but the views from the top (after scaling a rock-face, no lie) made up for the scratches. And the Temple of Poseidon was absolutely spectacular. It is so complete that you really feel like you can imagine what it was like up there. There is no doubt that it was meant to serve as an altar to the gods because its sheer size alone is imposing and grandiose. Thus far, it is my favorite ancient temple, and the views of the sea from all different sides were what I have come to expect from all of Greece… breathtaking.
While there isn’t much for me to really comment on about the day trip, it was a sight I won’t soon forget, and one I think that everyone should see should they make it to Greece in their lifetimes.
Santorini
When you think of Greece, what do you think of? Whitewashed buildings, blue-domed churches, beaches? If so, then really you just described many of the Greek Islands including the most photographed one, Santorini. And that is exactly where I was just the other weekend. It was an 8-hour ferry ride there in which the sitting options were the cold, windy, and wet upper deck or the hot, stuffy, and smoky lower deck. I opted for the upper-deck and the weather did turn around as we got further south and it was quite nice by the time we reached the island. Our hotel came and picked us up from the port and took us to our rooms in the city of Fira. All of the towns in Santorini are perched high atop the mountain cliffs or built into the side and it makes for some spectacular views.
The island is the result of volcanic activity and there is still an active volcano in the center. My travel group (which consisted of my roommates Katie, Aubrey, and Sara as well as Katie's friends Dustin, Ian, and Greg and her sister Emily) and I purchased tickets on a boat tour and went to the volcano and got a guided hike up to the top of it. It was amazing how much you could see and the island goes in a circle around it. You could actually feel the heat and energy radiating out from under your feet and we were warned to stay on the clearly marked paths because inside the craters there are noxious gases and extremely high temperatures. The entire island was black from lava and tiny red flowers had popped up all over.
The boat tour also took us to hot springs that we had to swim to because the boat couldn't get close enough. This means we had to swim through the freezing cold sea to the luke warm hot springs (apparently they're not really hot until the summer) and then swim back through the freezing sea to the boat again. So of course, we all did it. Unfortunately for us, we neglected to bring towels with us on the boat. We had the foresight to wear our bathing suits for the hot springs, but not to bring anything to dry off with, so we air-dried on the boat ride back to port. It was a bit chilly, but the sun was warm and it was definitely worth it.
To get back to Fira and our hotel for some nice hot showers we decided to take the famed donkey rides up. While it was on my list of things I must do before leaving Greece and it was a unique experience, I don't know that I would do it again in that same touristy capacity. The poor beasts had already brought a group of people up the 660 steps to the top of the hill/mountain/cliff and they were sweating and looked tired. Mine actually tripped once or twice on the steps. I know that they do it all the time, but I couldn't help but feel sorry for them and don't want to do it again. Plus, the guy was yelling at us telling us not to take pictures and we have no idea why, so that was confusing and frustrating as I did not get a great touristy picture of me on a donkey.
After that little adventure we decided to shower and try and find our way to Ia where the sunsets are supposed to be spectacular and then grab some dinner at a taverna. The boys were of course ready before the rest of us and decided to go investigate the mopeds they saw for rent earlier in the day. After a lot of back and forth we wound up renting 4 ATVs and driving to Ia. Eight of us was the perfect number and we had two on each bike. I got to drive almost the entire time and loved every minute of it. There really is no better way to see the island than in the open air like that. A bus would not have given us nearly the same views and experience and everyone really enjoyed driving them.
We used them the next day as well to go beach hopping. All of us collected some black sand and lava rocks as it is one of the trademarks of Santorini (see the previous volcano comments). Then we did a little shopping, got a ride down to the port from the nice people at our hotel, and took the 8-hour ferry ride back to Athens. The return boat ride was much more enjoyable and went very smoothly. It was probably one of the best weekends I've had thus far in Greece and I hope to have more experiences just like it.
The island is the result of volcanic activity and there is still an active volcano in the center. My travel group (which consisted of my roommates Katie, Aubrey, and Sara as well as Katie's friends Dustin, Ian, and Greg and her sister Emily) and I purchased tickets on a boat tour and went to the volcano and got a guided hike up to the top of it. It was amazing how much you could see and the island goes in a circle around it. You could actually feel the heat and energy radiating out from under your feet and we were warned to stay on the clearly marked paths because inside the craters there are noxious gases and extremely high temperatures. The entire island was black from lava and tiny red flowers had popped up all over.
The boat tour also took us to hot springs that we had to swim to because the boat couldn't get close enough. This means we had to swim through the freezing cold sea to the luke warm hot springs (apparently they're not really hot until the summer) and then swim back through the freezing sea to the boat again. So of course, we all did it. Unfortunately for us, we neglected to bring towels with us on the boat. We had the foresight to wear our bathing suits for the hot springs, but not to bring anything to dry off with, so we air-dried on the boat ride back to port. It was a bit chilly, but the sun was warm and it was definitely worth it.
To get back to Fira and our hotel for some nice hot showers we decided to take the famed donkey rides up. While it was on my list of things I must do before leaving Greece and it was a unique experience, I don't know that I would do it again in that same touristy capacity. The poor beasts had already brought a group of people up the 660 steps to the top of the hill/mountain/cliff and they were sweating and looked tired. Mine actually tripped once or twice on the steps. I know that they do it all the time, but I couldn't help but feel sorry for them and don't want to do it again. Plus, the guy was yelling at us telling us not to take pictures and we have no idea why, so that was confusing and frustrating as I did not get a great touristy picture of me on a donkey.
After that little adventure we decided to shower and try and find our way to Ia where the sunsets are supposed to be spectacular and then grab some dinner at a taverna. The boys were of course ready before the rest of us and decided to go investigate the mopeds they saw for rent earlier in the day. After a lot of back and forth we wound up renting 4 ATVs and driving to Ia. Eight of us was the perfect number and we had two on each bike. I got to drive almost the entire time and loved every minute of it. There really is no better way to see the island than in the open air like that. A bus would not have given us nearly the same views and experience and everyone really enjoyed driving them.
We used them the next day as well to go beach hopping. All of us collected some black sand and lava rocks as it is one of the trademarks of Santorini (see the previous volcano comments). Then we did a little shopping, got a ride down to the port from the nice people at our hotel, and took the 8-hour ferry ride back to Athens. The return boat ride was much more enjoyable and went very smoothly. It was probably one of the best weekends I've had thus far in Greece and I hope to have more experiences just like it.
A Small Slice of Home...
A friend of mine from high school who traveled with me to Australia when we were 15 and 16 years old happens to be studying in Athens this semester as well. I was unaware that she was going to be here and it wasn’t until she saw some mention of Greece on my facebook profile that she realized I was here too. She got in touch with me and we met up for lunch in the middle of Syntagma square. It was really strange to see such a familiar face in an only recently familiar place. Her program is very different from mine and she actually does not take any Modern Greek Language class. While I think that is poor planning on the part of her school, it made me appreciate what I have learned even if I feel like it isn’t enough at times. We had a very nice lunch and she showed me around her apartment which is much bigger and nicer than mine, but houses 8 people instead of 5. I know that I will see her again while here and it is going to be nice to have an escape when I need a break from Arcadia.
Another slice of home came to visit just last week. My roommate Katie had her three best friends and sister here visiting us the other week and it was extremely refreshing and much needed. It is amazing how trapped in a little bubble one can be with so much of the world lying in front of you, but the world of Arcadia can be very small and it was nice to have someone from the outside come in. The week also showed me just how much I have learned and adapted to Greek life, seeing others who have not experienced the culture or language yet. I believe that the bulk of my cultural education here has been through unconscious observation than anything else and seeing others struggle as I had at first with communication and understanding has encouraged me in how much I now know.
While Katie’s “parea” (a Greek term for your inner network of friends) was here we celebrated St. Patrick’s Day at our local pub on Monday night (the official St. Patrick’s Day, not the pope sanctioned one), but were disappointed by the lack of fanfare as the holiday is not really recognized here unless at an American bar or Irish pub. But we made up for the lack of Greek enthusiasm by going out to “Hell’s Kitchen” the next night for dinner which serves more American style cuisine. It was delicious and the people friendly. Even the service was more American, with our waitress coming to check on us periodically and asking us how we liked the food. One of the chefs actually came out and was talking to us and it turns out he is from Connecticut originally and found his way here seeking job opportunities in his family’s home country, a place he visited a lot as a child. It was nice to have an escape from the frustration and confusion of not fully understanding the spoken language and the body language of Greece.
Besides these small adventures, time with Katie’s friends was enjoyable as the apartment was a lot more full of life and her friends seemed to adopt us quickly as their own. Their personalities suited me well and their being here reaffirmed my enjoyment of meeting new people. Because I got along with them so well, however, I did grow a bit homesick upon their departure. Seeing Katie with her closest friends that she’s known for years made me really miss mine and the few days following were the most homesick I’ve been since I got to Greece. Thank goodness for phones and internet to keep me connected to the people I love back in the United States so that such periods don’t last too long and I may go on my way and enjoy the rest of my time in Greece. We have a lot of adventures already planned and I know that the rest of the semester will go by quickly which is a blessing and curse. But I am certain to have many more stories to tell before my return to the States in May.
Another slice of home came to visit just last week. My roommate Katie had her three best friends and sister here visiting us the other week and it was extremely refreshing and much needed. It is amazing how trapped in a little bubble one can be with so much of the world lying in front of you, but the world of Arcadia can be very small and it was nice to have someone from the outside come in. The week also showed me just how much I have learned and adapted to Greek life, seeing others who have not experienced the culture or language yet. I believe that the bulk of my cultural education here has been through unconscious observation than anything else and seeing others struggle as I had at first with communication and understanding has encouraged me in how much I now know.
While Katie’s “parea” (a Greek term for your inner network of friends) was here we celebrated St. Patrick’s Day at our local pub on Monday night (the official St. Patrick’s Day, not the pope sanctioned one), but were disappointed by the lack of fanfare as the holiday is not really recognized here unless at an American bar or Irish pub. But we made up for the lack of Greek enthusiasm by going out to “Hell’s Kitchen” the next night for dinner which serves more American style cuisine. It was delicious and the people friendly. Even the service was more American, with our waitress coming to check on us periodically and asking us how we liked the food. One of the chefs actually came out and was talking to us and it turns out he is from Connecticut originally and found his way here seeking job opportunities in his family’s home country, a place he visited a lot as a child. It was nice to have an escape from the frustration and confusion of not fully understanding the spoken language and the body language of Greece.
Besides these small adventures, time with Katie’s friends was enjoyable as the apartment was a lot more full of life and her friends seemed to adopt us quickly as their own. Their personalities suited me well and their being here reaffirmed my enjoyment of meeting new people. Because I got along with them so well, however, I did grow a bit homesick upon their departure. Seeing Katie with her closest friends that she’s known for years made me really miss mine and the few days following were the most homesick I’ve been since I got to Greece. Thank goodness for phones and internet to keep me connected to the people I love back in the United States so that such periods don’t last too long and I may go on my way and enjoy the rest of my time in Greece. We have a lot of adventures already planned and I know that the rest of the semester will go by quickly which is a blessing and curse. But I am certain to have many more stories to tell before my return to the States in May.
Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Life Without Lights
There has been a lot of employee strife lately in Athens, and all of Greece, as some people are unhappy about pension and social security reforms that are being proposed. As a result, many unions and workers organizations have been striking. At first it was mostly the public transportation and one day there was a protest in the streets. More recently it has been the power. Workers in the power companies have been striking by shutting off power in random places for a couple of hours at a time, and now because they won’t work normal hours there is a lack of power and the electricity has been shut off at intervals to try and conserve the power we do have. While these strikes are illegal as they are dangerous for the general public (street lights randomly going out, people getting stuck in elevators, and people on medical machines at home) no resolution has been reached.
My apartment has been the subject of a number of power outages lately, but typically the power returns within a couple of hours so it is more of an inconvenience than a problem. But the last time it went out was around 4pm on Sunday. An hour or two later power returned to our street and to our apartment building, but not to our apartment. It being Sunday, a day when most public works are closed, not much could be done. Thankfully with no power our apartment still had water, but unthankfully the next day was Clean Monday, a national holiday as I mentioned earlier, so no one would be working then either. Ultimately we wound up without lights, hot water, a fridge (we had to throw out a lot of food that started to go bad), and stove from 4pm Sunday until 1pm Tuesday when an electrician came to the apartment.
It was not quite the adventure I had hoped to have while in Athens, but my apartment and I are lucky to have made good friends with the other students in our program. We ventured out to others’ apartments for shower and to get some hot water for tea and such. Living by candlelight and flashlight was less than enjoyable, but it could have been worse (thank goodness it hasn’t been too cold around here lately). I am very grateful to have power back as I was starting to feel like I was living in the “old country” and didn’t realize how much I would miss the use of a light bulb. Everything is fixed now and we are keeping our fingers-crossed that our street gets a break from all of the power outages for a while (many of the other Arcadia apartments have not lost power once yet), but I’ll keep you posted.
My apartment has been the subject of a number of power outages lately, but typically the power returns within a couple of hours so it is more of an inconvenience than a problem. But the last time it went out was around 4pm on Sunday. An hour or two later power returned to our street and to our apartment building, but not to our apartment. It being Sunday, a day when most public works are closed, not much could be done. Thankfully with no power our apartment still had water, but unthankfully the next day was Clean Monday, a national holiday as I mentioned earlier, so no one would be working then either. Ultimately we wound up without lights, hot water, a fridge (we had to throw out a lot of food that started to go bad), and stove from 4pm Sunday until 1pm Tuesday when an electrician came to the apartment.
It was not quite the adventure I had hoped to have while in Athens, but my apartment and I are lucky to have made good friends with the other students in our program. We ventured out to others’ apartments for shower and to get some hot water for tea and such. Living by candlelight and flashlight was less than enjoyable, but it could have been worse (thank goodness it hasn’t been too cold around here lately). I am very grateful to have power back as I was starting to feel like I was living in the “old country” and didn’t realize how much I would miss the use of a light bulb. Everything is fixed now and we are keeping our fingers-crossed that our street gets a break from all of the power outages for a while (many of the other Arcadia apartments have not lost power once yet), but I’ll keep you posted.
Clean Monday
Monday, in the Greek Orthodox calendar, was the first day of Lent. There are many traditions associated with this day, and I did my best to participate in all of them. On this day only, every bakery makes this special bread called λαγάνα (lagana). My apartment got two loaves. It is this delicious loaf of bread that is large and square in shape, covered in sesame seeds, and made without any animal byproducts which are forbidden in the traditional Lenten fast which starts this day.
Although I am not sure of its significance, another largely observed tradition is the flying of kites. My friends and I got ourselves a couple of kites and headed over to Filopapous Hill to fly them. We had little success until a Greek man came over and helped us retie it the proper way. It turns out there is a real science to it, and he spent a good twenty minutes working on our kite. He turned out to be a professor and he had a couple of his students with him, as well as his little niece. The students were two Turkish students studying in Athens for the semester. They spoke Turkish and English (and thus English with me) and he spoke Greek and Turkish (Turkish with them, Greek with me). I chatted with the girls for a while as he worked diligently on our semi-broken kite and eventually it was in flying condition.
It didn’t take long to get our kite up in the air. In fact, it got up so well it whipped the string quickly off the spool and the wind pulled our kite so far out that we could barely see it. Then the wind decided it very much liked our kite and tore it loose from the string. The kite-string collapsed on the ground and our kite flew hundreds of feet further across the sky until we could no longer even see a speck of it. Short-lived as it was, it was fun while it lasted and definitely cool to get to chat with those Turkish girls and their professor. Those Greeks never cease to amaze me when it comes to their willingness to help at times.
We ended the day right by heading out for some seafood as during Lent meat is not eaten at all. We ventured to the neighborhood of Petrolona, as suggested by one of our professors. While we were expecting a long row of tavernas, it turned out that most were closed (apparently not too surprising as many people leave Athens to be with family in their villages for the major holidays… and Monday was a national holiday). Finally we found one that was open and could accommodate all of us. They had a special menu for the day as there are many traditional foods that are eaten on Clean Monday. Luckily I had my handy little phrasebook with me that had a traditional Greek foods index to help us look up the various dishes (the owners told us they could not very easily translate the entire menu into English). With a little patience and a good memory we managed to decipher the whole thing and order successfully. The food was delicious as usual, although some were surprised with what they ordered (it turns out scuttlefish is squid and the shrimp/prawns come completely whole and must be deshelled by hand).
I believe according to Greek standards it was a very successful Clean Monday and I really enjoyed partaking in all of the traditions. This is what my time in Greece is supposed to be about… really getting to know the Greek culture and partaking in it, not just observing it.
Although I am not sure of its significance, another largely observed tradition is the flying of kites. My friends and I got ourselves a couple of kites and headed over to Filopapous Hill to fly them. We had little success until a Greek man came over and helped us retie it the proper way. It turns out there is a real science to it, and he spent a good twenty minutes working on our kite. He turned out to be a professor and he had a couple of his students with him, as well as his little niece. The students were two Turkish students studying in Athens for the semester. They spoke Turkish and English (and thus English with me) and he spoke Greek and Turkish (Turkish with them, Greek with me). I chatted with the girls for a while as he worked diligently on our semi-broken kite and eventually it was in flying condition.
It didn’t take long to get our kite up in the air. In fact, it got up so well it whipped the string quickly off the spool and the wind pulled our kite so far out that we could barely see it. Then the wind decided it very much liked our kite and tore it loose from the string. The kite-string collapsed on the ground and our kite flew hundreds of feet further across the sky until we could no longer even see a speck of it. Short-lived as it was, it was fun while it lasted and definitely cool to get to chat with those Turkish girls and their professor. Those Greeks never cease to amaze me when it comes to their willingness to help at times.
We ended the day right by heading out for some seafood as during Lent meat is not eaten at all. We ventured to the neighborhood of Petrolona, as suggested by one of our professors. While we were expecting a long row of tavernas, it turned out that most were closed (apparently not too surprising as many people leave Athens to be with family in their villages for the major holidays… and Monday was a national holiday). Finally we found one that was open and could accommodate all of us. They had a special menu for the day as there are many traditional foods that are eaten on Clean Monday. Luckily I had my handy little phrasebook with me that had a traditional Greek foods index to help us look up the various dishes (the owners told us they could not very easily translate the entire menu into English). With a little patience and a good memory we managed to decipher the whole thing and order successfully. The food was delicious as usual, although some were surprised with what they ordered (it turns out scuttlefish is squid and the shrimp/prawns come completely whole and must be deshelled by hand).
I believe according to Greek standards it was a very successful Clean Monday and I really enjoyed partaking in all of the traditions. This is what my time in Greece is supposed to be about… really getting to know the Greek culture and partaking in it, not just observing it.
Sleep and Patras Do Not Go Together
For the past 3 weeks there have been celebrations involving costumes, cotton candy, and confetti. It all came to a head this past Saturday and Sunday. The event is called Carnival and the biggest celebration in Greece goes on in Patras. It is ranked 3rd in terms of pre-Lenten celebrations, coming in behind New Orleans and Rio de Janeiro. This is where my friends and I decided to spend the last night of Carnival.
It is a 3 hour bus ride from Athens and my apartment left the city at 9pm. We arrived at midnight to a crowd of costumed Greeks dancing, drinking, and eating. A number of our Arcadia comrades had arrived as early as 6pm to see the parade, but seemed a bit worse for wear by the time we arrived and I was happy to have waited to get there.
We were all dressed up with masks and our party clothes, and after a little bit of work rounding up some of our friends who had arrived earlier, we made Chick n Chicken (a fastfood chicken place) our home base. From there we ventured out into the city to have a look around. Confetti, streamers, and colorful lights coated the streets from ground to sky. Giant statues of jester-looking men had been erected in the squares and rainbow lights in the form of ribbons were hung from every light fixture.
The colors, lights, and loud music were a bit overwhelming at first, but I quickly adjusted and tried to take some time to really absorb the whole scene. Costumes ranged from mere masks to full-blown Halloween type costumes and many people matched and dressed up in coordinating outfits. I believe the best one I saw was a group of 4 people who had these old English (Shakespeare is what I thought of) type outfits on that were blue and white checkered with these funny square hats. Upon closer inspection you realize that they are supposed to be a particular object, a chessboard. Their hats even had the chess pieces glued to them.
Venturing through the streets and in and out of bars searching for the best atmosphere and most American friendly place, we settled and wound up dancing the night away. By 6:30am we were all a bit tired and the street sweepers had come out to sweep up the confetti and trash. There was a parade again at 2pm, but none of us were quite up to sticking around Patras for another 7 and ½ hours, so we got the next bus (7:15am) back to Athens.
While I know that I would have regretted being so close to such a huge Carnival celebration and not going, if I were in Greece at this time of year again, I don’t believe I would make my way back to Patras. Such a celebration, I think, would be more enjoyable somewhere a bit more familiar where one can frequent their favorite places and would not get too easily lost or stranded. Overall it was definitely a worthwhile experience for me, but I don’t know that I would avidly recommend it to others, it really depends on how much you like crowds, loud noises, and bright colors.
It is a 3 hour bus ride from Athens and my apartment left the city at 9pm. We arrived at midnight to a crowd of costumed Greeks dancing, drinking, and eating. A number of our Arcadia comrades had arrived as early as 6pm to see the parade, but seemed a bit worse for wear by the time we arrived and I was happy to have waited to get there.
We were all dressed up with masks and our party clothes, and after a little bit of work rounding up some of our friends who had arrived earlier, we made Chick n Chicken (a fastfood chicken place) our home base. From there we ventured out into the city to have a look around. Confetti, streamers, and colorful lights coated the streets from ground to sky. Giant statues of jester-looking men had been erected in the squares and rainbow lights in the form of ribbons were hung from every light fixture.
The colors, lights, and loud music were a bit overwhelming at first, but I quickly adjusted and tried to take some time to really absorb the whole scene. Costumes ranged from mere masks to full-blown Halloween type costumes and many people matched and dressed up in coordinating outfits. I believe the best one I saw was a group of 4 people who had these old English (Shakespeare is what I thought of) type outfits on that were blue and white checkered with these funny square hats. Upon closer inspection you realize that they are supposed to be a particular object, a chessboard. Their hats even had the chess pieces glued to them.
Venturing through the streets and in and out of bars searching for the best atmosphere and most American friendly place, we settled and wound up dancing the night away. By 6:30am we were all a bit tired and the street sweepers had come out to sweep up the confetti and trash. There was a parade again at 2pm, but none of us were quite up to sticking around Patras for another 7 and ½ hours, so we got the next bus (7:15am) back to Athens.
While I know that I would have regretted being so close to such a huge Carnival celebration and not going, if I were in Greece at this time of year again, I don’t believe I would make my way back to Patras. Such a celebration, I think, would be more enjoyable somewhere a bit more familiar where one can frequent their favorite places and would not get too easily lost or stranded. Overall it was definitely a worthwhile experience for me, but I don’t know that I would avidly recommend it to others, it really depends on how much you like crowds, loud noises, and bright colors.
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
Hydra
This past weekend was my first venture to a Greek Isle. My apartment, our friends Therese, Matt, and Tony, and myself headed to the island of Hydra. This particular island allows no motor vehicles and all travel is done by foot or by donkey (which really is a tourist thing to do). The weather was spectacular and the views amazing. I know that it sounds like I say that about everywhere, but seriously, this place was gorgeous.
We checked ourselves into our hotel and grabbed some lunch before exploring the island. Not as much was open as it will be during high season (June through August), but it was still relatively crowded. We saw some people in more traditional dress performing some Greek dances on the street by the water and we wandered around a small fortress looking place (I say fortress because it had canons, really I'm not sure what it was). Then we decided to climb to the top of this mountain to a monastery. And when I say mountain, I mean mountain, as in those 999 steps to the top of the Palimidi in Nafplio was a cakewalk in comparison. But it was worth the struggle and fatigue. On one side, the view was of mountains, the ocean, and just a vast landscape untouched by human hands. On the other side, a view of the city of Hydra Town with its white-washed houses and colorful boats. It was truly spectacular and there was a sense of calm and peace in the air I haven't felt anywhere before.
Dinner was an adventure we experienced entirely in Greek, as we impressed even ourselves as to how much we could understand and ask for. The food was delicious, as usual, but considering it was one of maybe two tavernas open we didn't have much choice in eating there. On our way in we passed some other Americans whom we identified more by the fact that they read one of my counterparts sweatshirts than the look of them. They informed us that it was good food at a reasonable price, so we were encouraged that at least the only place open on the island was a good one. It was a pleasant meal with good company.
The next day, after hunting down someone who worked at the hotel and checking out and such (they were kind enough to let us leave our bags in one of the rooms) we headed out to get our ferry tickets and locate a beach. Now when I say beach, I don't mean what you think I mean. In Hydra beach means pebbles, rocks, and boulders. It sounds awful, but if you have a towel you can sort of wedge your way comfortably into the grooves of the pebbles, or do as we all eventually did and lay on the rocks like seals. It was great to be in the sun and there was a nice breeze. I was even brave enough to go for a dip in the ocean. It was freezing, but well worth it and surprisingly refreshing (although I know there are some pictures of me looking rather in pain).
We were sad to leave the beauty of the island, but this trip has inspired me to seek out many more Greek Isles in time here in Greece. If they are all as nice as Hydra, I don't think it will be possible to have a bad time here :-)
We checked ourselves into our hotel and grabbed some lunch before exploring the island. Not as much was open as it will be during high season (June through August), but it was still relatively crowded. We saw some people in more traditional dress performing some Greek dances on the street by the water and we wandered around a small fortress looking place (I say fortress because it had canons, really I'm not sure what it was). Then we decided to climb to the top of this mountain to a monastery. And when I say mountain, I mean mountain, as in those 999 steps to the top of the Palimidi in Nafplio was a cakewalk in comparison. But it was worth the struggle and fatigue. On one side, the view was of mountains, the ocean, and just a vast landscape untouched by human hands. On the other side, a view of the city of Hydra Town with its white-washed houses and colorful boats. It was truly spectacular and there was a sense of calm and peace in the air I haven't felt anywhere before.
Dinner was an adventure we experienced entirely in Greek, as we impressed even ourselves as to how much we could understand and ask for. The food was delicious, as usual, but considering it was one of maybe two tavernas open we didn't have much choice in eating there. On our way in we passed some other Americans whom we identified more by the fact that they read one of my counterparts sweatshirts than the look of them. They informed us that it was good food at a reasonable price, so we were encouraged that at least the only place open on the island was a good one. It was a pleasant meal with good company.
The next day, after hunting down someone who worked at the hotel and checking out and such (they were kind enough to let us leave our bags in one of the rooms) we headed out to get our ferry tickets and locate a beach. Now when I say beach, I don't mean what you think I mean. In Hydra beach means pebbles, rocks, and boulders. It sounds awful, but if you have a towel you can sort of wedge your way comfortably into the grooves of the pebbles, or do as we all eventually did and lay on the rocks like seals. It was great to be in the sun and there was a nice breeze. I was even brave enough to go for a dip in the ocean. It was freezing, but well worth it and surprisingly refreshing (although I know there are some pictures of me looking rather in pain).
We were sad to leave the beauty of the island, but this trip has inspired me to seek out many more Greek Isles in time here in Greece. If they are all as nice as Hydra, I don't think it will be possible to have a bad time here :-)
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Sweet Shop Crawl
Just like it sounds, this past Friday I went on a "Sweet Shop Crawl". Kim, the Student Services Director of Arcadia here in Athens, took a group of us from one sweet place to another. We got to sample traditional Greek sweets throughout the city.
It started at a little shop that specializes in donuts... or Loukamades as they call them in Greek. We had these funnel cake like donuts covered in honey and cinnamon. They were absolutely delicious and something I had been meaning to try since I got to Greece. Next we walked to this wonderful little gelato place where we got "ena bala" or one "ball" of gelato each. I tried the Kinder which is named after a candybar (one that I have not tried yet, but am now on the hunt for). It was chocolate with marshmallow swirl and a cookie crunch. The marshmallow was a pleasant surprise because it is not a common flavor here and marshmallows have been impossible to find. Next we took the Metro to Kifissia (a 45 minute ride) to this well-known and well-established bakery and yogurt place. We all tried yogurt with honey and walnuts, "Crema" which is a custard, Baklava, Kataifi (similar to baklava, but with shredded phyllo dough, looking kind of like a giant shredded wheat drenched in honey), and Galaktoboureko which is a pastry made of phyllo dough and custard, my favorite that we had there. To end our day we went to a small chocolate shop in Syntagma (close to where I live) and each got to try a different kind of chocolate, all of which were made in Greece.
After 4 and 1/2 hours of this sweet shop crawl my roommates and I were in desperate need of some salty goodness (I was practically shaking from all of the sugar) so we got Gyros at the local Gyro place and then completed our "to do" lists for the day. It was a lot of fun and certainly something I think everyone should do. Really, I have yet to have anything bad to eat in this country and the category of "sweets" is no exception. Knowing me and my sweet tooth you can understand how this was right up my alley, and a very enjoyable day excursion.
The next morning we left for Hydra... read my next post to hear all about my first island experience in Greece.
It started at a little shop that specializes in donuts... or Loukamades as they call them in Greek. We had these funnel cake like donuts covered in honey and cinnamon. They were absolutely delicious and something I had been meaning to try since I got to Greece. Next we walked to this wonderful little gelato place where we got "ena bala" or one "ball" of gelato each. I tried the Kinder which is named after a candybar (one that I have not tried yet, but am now on the hunt for). It was chocolate with marshmallow swirl and a cookie crunch. The marshmallow was a pleasant surprise because it is not a common flavor here and marshmallows have been impossible to find. Next we took the Metro to Kifissia (a 45 minute ride) to this well-known and well-established bakery and yogurt place. We all tried yogurt with honey and walnuts, "Crema" which is a custard, Baklava, Kataifi (similar to baklava, but with shredded phyllo dough, looking kind of like a giant shredded wheat drenched in honey), and Galaktoboureko which is a pastry made of phyllo dough and custard, my favorite that we had there. To end our day we went to a small chocolate shop in Syntagma (close to where I live) and each got to try a different kind of chocolate, all of which were made in Greece.
After 4 and 1/2 hours of this sweet shop crawl my roommates and I were in desperate need of some salty goodness (I was practically shaking from all of the sugar) so we got Gyros at the local Gyro place and then completed our "to do" lists for the day. It was a lot of fun and certainly something I think everyone should do. Really, I have yet to have anything bad to eat in this country and the category of "sweets" is no exception. Knowing me and my sweet tooth you can understand how this was right up my alley, and a very enjoyable day excursion.
The next morning we left for Hydra... read my next post to hear all about my first island experience in Greece.
Friday, February 29, 2008
From Tripoli to Athens
After an easy, hour long bus ride to Tripoli from Sparta we stopped. At this stop, there didn't seem to be much around, but we had seen signs telling us we were in Tripoli. One of the girls got off the bus and asked to be sure where we were, but we were all a bit skeptacle as we had read in our guidebooks about the big new bus station in Tripoli. A man, seeming to be nice at first, told us that we were in Tripoli and this is where we needed to be, so we all got off the bus. Next thing we know he's telling us we should take his cab to Nafplio because there is no bus to Argos until the next morning. He took us to a small bus station with a woman who didn't speak any English and as my frustration mounted that this man had basically tricked us off the bus, we decided to leave and make our way to the proper bus station to get our bus.
We looked in the guidebook and found the address and asked someone on the street where the plateia (square) we needed was. After making our way down there (passing the cab driving once who had followed us and offered again to take us in his cab) a man at a kiosk told us that this was where the bus station used to be but that it had now moved to the other side of town. Now in a bit of a frenzy because our bus was leaving in half an hour, we booked it across town. That persistent and obnoxious cab driver had followed us further and was shouting at us from his cab as we walked by and I had to resist all urges to turn around and punch him in the face... but don't worry, I didn't.
Finally we made it to the proper bus station in Tripoli, just in time for our bus to Argos, only to find out that the cab driver was actually right and there wasn't a bus to Argos until the morning, the one we had called and asked about earlier in the week had been cancelled. Oh how the stress levels rose. We were trying to find some alternative form of travel to Argos when who should appear in the bus station but that same cab driver. We finally told him off, politely, and he loomed a bit but kept his distance. Katie, being the collected person she is, befriended the man who worked behind the counter at the bus station and he gave us a number for a reliable taxi company to call. We wound up taking two cabs to Nafplio (we had to end our trip there, so we decided to just make it our home base) and paid 50 Euro a cab. The drivers were very nice and even pulled over at this cliff's edge so that we could take pictures of a spectacular view.
Upon arrival in Nafplio we had one last task to perform... we had to find a hotel. After wandering around, inquiring about prices in various hotels, using a combination of Greek and English, we found a small hotel run by a little old woman with blue hair. She spoke very little English, but enough was communicated and she set us up with a double room and a triple (there being six of us, we split up 2 and 4). The double room had the use of a hall bathroom as well as a sink, and the triple room, which could only be accessed by going through the double and through a courtyard had it's own bathroom, although it was without a shower curtain. We were so greatful just to have a (cheap) place to stay that we went out for a nice warm dinner and went to bed.
The next day we were back on track and got some breakfast at a bakery, apples from the Laiki, and took a bus to Mycenae. If you're like me, you don't know much about Mycenae, but I will inform you (or refresh your memory, for those of you who do know about it). I've been told that Mycenae may be the oldest ruins I will ever visit. They were excavated in the late 1800s by Heinrich Schliemann. Although there is no conclusive evidence, he and others have suggested that these ruins include the tomb of Clytemnestra and either the tomb of Agamemnon or the Treasury of Atreius. The site was absolutely gorgeous especially with such beautiful weather. The sun was shining and it was warm. It took my breath away and I am so glad we went. We had enough time to see the entire site as well as the small museum, and I am thoroughly enjoying the benefit of being considered a European Student because all of these sites and museums have been free.
We spent the rest of the weekend relaxing in Nafplio, eating, drinking, and enjoying the water. All-in-all it was a successful and eventful weekend. I am very proud of us for our first entirely independent travel experience and am looking foward to next weekend when my apartment, our friends Therese, Matt, and Tony, and I all head to Hydra, an island not far from Athens.
Stay tuned... more to come.
We looked in the guidebook and found the address and asked someone on the street where the plateia (square) we needed was. After making our way down there (passing the cab driving once who had followed us and offered again to take us in his cab) a man at a kiosk told us that this was where the bus station used to be but that it had now moved to the other side of town. Now in a bit of a frenzy because our bus was leaving in half an hour, we booked it across town. That persistent and obnoxious cab driver had followed us further and was shouting at us from his cab as we walked by and I had to resist all urges to turn around and punch him in the face... but don't worry, I didn't.
Finally we made it to the proper bus station in Tripoli, just in time for our bus to Argos, only to find out that the cab driver was actually right and there wasn't a bus to Argos until the morning, the one we had called and asked about earlier in the week had been cancelled. Oh how the stress levels rose. We were trying to find some alternative form of travel to Argos when who should appear in the bus station but that same cab driver. We finally told him off, politely, and he loomed a bit but kept his distance. Katie, being the collected person she is, befriended the man who worked behind the counter at the bus station and he gave us a number for a reliable taxi company to call. We wound up taking two cabs to Nafplio (we had to end our trip there, so we decided to just make it our home base) and paid 50 Euro a cab. The drivers were very nice and even pulled over at this cliff's edge so that we could take pictures of a spectacular view.
Upon arrival in Nafplio we had one last task to perform... we had to find a hotel. After wandering around, inquiring about prices in various hotels, using a combination of Greek and English, we found a small hotel run by a little old woman with blue hair. She spoke very little English, but enough was communicated and she set us up with a double room and a triple (there being six of us, we split up 2 and 4). The double room had the use of a hall bathroom as well as a sink, and the triple room, which could only be accessed by going through the double and through a courtyard had it's own bathroom, although it was without a shower curtain. We were so greatful just to have a (cheap) place to stay that we went out for a nice warm dinner and went to bed.
The next day we were back on track and got some breakfast at a bakery, apples from the Laiki, and took a bus to Mycenae. If you're like me, you don't know much about Mycenae, but I will inform you (or refresh your memory, for those of you who do know about it). I've been told that Mycenae may be the oldest ruins I will ever visit. They were excavated in the late 1800s by Heinrich Schliemann. Although there is no conclusive evidence, he and others have suggested that these ruins include the tomb of Clytemnestra and either the tomb of Agamemnon or the Treasury of Atreius. The site was absolutely gorgeous especially with such beautiful weather. The sun was shining and it was warm. It took my breath away and I am so glad we went. We had enough time to see the entire site as well as the small museum, and I am thoroughly enjoying the benefit of being considered a European Student because all of these sites and museums have been free.
We spent the rest of the weekend relaxing in Nafplio, eating, drinking, and enjoying the water. All-in-all it was a successful and eventful weekend. I am very proud of us for our first entirely independent travel experience and am looking foward to next weekend when my apartment, our friends Therese, Matt, and Tony, and I all head to Hydra, an island not far from Athens.
Stay tuned... more to come.
From Athens to Sparta
I'm sorry for the delay in my posts. The past weekend was quite a spectacle and I've decided to write about it in parts, also because I have limited time on the internet this morning and may only get half of it up.
Our weekend trip was intended to be Athens to Sparta to Tripoli to Argos to Mycenae to Nafplio and back to Athens. It wound up being Athens to Sparta to Tripoli to Nafplio to Mycenae back to Nafplio and back to Athens. Let me describe for you the events of Friday morning.
We were instructed to take a cab to the bus station, that it was the easiest and most efficient way to get there. I believe this was a subjective rather than objective opinion, because for us, hailing a cab in Greek turned out to be quite a challenge. We started on one road then decided to move to a different plateia (square). There, everytime a taxi would stop we would shout to the drive where we wanted to go, "KTEL Alpha!" but had little success. After splitting our group of 6 into two sets of 3 we tried to divide and conquer. My group was able to get a cab with relative ease (and I mean relative to the other group of girls), but only after throwing our Greek out the window and shouting "Bus Station!" Once in the cab, with another lady already going somewhere, the cab driver spoke little to us and had small coversation with the woman. After she got out he picked up another person and proceeded to recount the story of how he wasn't sure where we were going because apparently we so horrifically mispronounced "KTEL Alpha" that he didn't understand us. Of course this conversation was in Greek and while I could understand enough to get that that was what he was talking about, my conversational skills are not strong enough to point out how rude he was being. But in the end we got to the bus station, so we can't complain too much.
The other group of girls were not so lucky. While we waited at the bus station they tried fervently to hail a cab. Finally they got one and let us know, so we bought their bus tickets for them (if we missed the 8:15am bus we would have to wait there until the 10:00am bus). Katie asked the woman at the desk to see if they would hold the bus for us and they said they would wait 5 minutes. It took about 8 for the girls to get there and the YaYas on the bus were getting annoyed. As soon as they got out of the cab and saw me, I yelled for them to run and we hurried our way to the bus. It was quite an adventure, but we made, just barely.
Sparta was probably the most uninspiring place in Greece I've been to thus far. There was a miniscule archeaology museum, a sanctuary to Theonides that looks like a random pile of rocks in the middle of a park, and, most interesting of all, the Olive Museum. Thankfully we only spent a couple of hours there, just long enough to see everything there is to see in Sparta. From there we took a bus to Tripoli, the smoothest of our travels that day.
Check out my next post to read about the rest of my weekend, it's too long to put in one post alone.
Our weekend trip was intended to be Athens to Sparta to Tripoli to Argos to Mycenae to Nafplio and back to Athens. It wound up being Athens to Sparta to Tripoli to Nafplio to Mycenae back to Nafplio and back to Athens. Let me describe for you the events of Friday morning.
We were instructed to take a cab to the bus station, that it was the easiest and most efficient way to get there. I believe this was a subjective rather than objective opinion, because for us, hailing a cab in Greek turned out to be quite a challenge. We started on one road then decided to move to a different plateia (square). There, everytime a taxi would stop we would shout to the drive where we wanted to go, "KTEL Alpha!" but had little success. After splitting our group of 6 into two sets of 3 we tried to divide and conquer. My group was able to get a cab with relative ease (and I mean relative to the other group of girls), but only after throwing our Greek out the window and shouting "Bus Station!" Once in the cab, with another lady already going somewhere, the cab driver spoke little to us and had small coversation with the woman. After she got out he picked up another person and proceeded to recount the story of how he wasn't sure where we were going because apparently we so horrifically mispronounced "KTEL Alpha" that he didn't understand us. Of course this conversation was in Greek and while I could understand enough to get that that was what he was talking about, my conversational skills are not strong enough to point out how rude he was being. But in the end we got to the bus station, so we can't complain too much.
The other group of girls were not so lucky. While we waited at the bus station they tried fervently to hail a cab. Finally they got one and let us know, so we bought their bus tickets for them (if we missed the 8:15am bus we would have to wait there until the 10:00am bus). Katie asked the woman at the desk to see if they would hold the bus for us and they said they would wait 5 minutes. It took about 8 for the girls to get there and the YaYas on the bus were getting annoyed. As soon as they got out of the cab and saw me, I yelled for them to run and we hurried our way to the bus. It was quite an adventure, but we made, just barely.
Sparta was probably the most uninspiring place in Greece I've been to thus far. There was a miniscule archeaology museum, a sanctuary to Theonides that looks like a random pile of rocks in the middle of a park, and, most interesting of all, the Olive Museum. Thankfully we only spent a couple of hours there, just long enough to see everything there is to see in Sparta. From there we took a bus to Tripoli, the smoothest of our travels that day.
Check out my next post to read about the rest of my weekend, it's too long to put in one post alone.
Sunday, February 24, 2008
From Valentine's Day to Snow Day
Valentine's Day
Not a typically large holiday in Greece, as Americans we decided to have our own little celebration of Valentine's day. One of the apartments was kind enough to host the girls on the trip and we had chocolate fondue, brownies, candy, cookies, and wine. It was really a pleasant event and the first time we had really organized ourselves without the program's influence. A girls' night out was in store afterwards, but my apartment was a bit under the weather at the time and we all decided to head back to our apartment where we watched a movie and went to bed. Not quite the spectacle it is in the United States, our Valentine's Day was a bit lackluster, but we managed to take the opportunity to get together and get a little dressed up.
A Weekend in Athens
The weekend following my Delphi excursion, I decided to stay in Athens and enjoy the city. Friday was a rather touristy day for me and the girls in my apartment. We went to Plaka which is a very tourist neighborhood right below the Acropolis. There I got myself a souvenir set of Drachma (the old currency of Greece) and a shot glass, of course. We ate lunch out at this restaurant we had frequented earlier this semester and enjoyed the same great Greek food. But we decided for dinner to try something a little more American and went to TGI Friday's. The food on the menu is the same as in the United States, but very expensive. It was good to have a small taste of home though, especially because I was pretty sick at the time and a bit homesick.
The rest of the weekend it snowed. Can you believe it? Yes, I saw snow in Athens. The Greeks were as surprised as I was and the city shut down in many places. And by that I mean, the public transportation was not running and all public offices were closed. The cafes and bakeries and grocery stores were still open. To celebrate the snow, Katie, Sara, Aubrey, and I (my apartment save for one) went outside and had a snowball fight with a couple of passing Arcadia students and went to a cafe. On the way back we decided to build a snowman with the snow on top of all the cars and ran the pieces up to our apartment. Ελένη, as we called her, didn't last very long, but we did manage to get some pictures with her. The rest of the weekend was a bit sleepy and I spent my time cleaning, organizing, doing schoolwork (yes, I actually have schoolwork here), and working on the largest puzzle ever mass produced. <--- If I haven't mentioned this before, I will discuss it in a later blog.
Snow Day
We actually had a "snow day" from school the following Monday. Well most students did, however, I only have an 8am class on Mondays and my professor lives nearby so we still had class, but the rest of classes were cancelled because of the snow. It was a nice chance to relax and enjoy the snow. The young Greek boys around throwing snowballs at us was less than relaxing, however, but not enough to dampen the unexpected holiday. Unfortunately, the weather did hinder any further exploration of the city, but I will simply have to pick it back up this coming week.
This weekend... Sparta, Argos, and Mycenae.
Not a typically large holiday in Greece, as Americans we decided to have our own little celebration of Valentine's day. One of the apartments was kind enough to host the girls on the trip and we had chocolate fondue, brownies, candy, cookies, and wine. It was really a pleasant event and the first time we had really organized ourselves without the program's influence. A girls' night out was in store afterwards, but my apartment was a bit under the weather at the time and we all decided to head back to our apartment where we watched a movie and went to bed. Not quite the spectacle it is in the United States, our Valentine's Day was a bit lackluster, but we managed to take the opportunity to get together and get a little dressed up.
A Weekend in Athens
The weekend following my Delphi excursion, I decided to stay in Athens and enjoy the city. Friday was a rather touristy day for me and the girls in my apartment. We went to Plaka which is a very tourist neighborhood right below the Acropolis. There I got myself a souvenir set of Drachma (the old currency of Greece) and a shot glass, of course. We ate lunch out at this restaurant we had frequented earlier this semester and enjoyed the same great Greek food. But we decided for dinner to try something a little more American and went to TGI Friday's. The food on the menu is the same as in the United States, but very expensive. It was good to have a small taste of home though, especially because I was pretty sick at the time and a bit homesick.
The rest of the weekend it snowed. Can you believe it? Yes, I saw snow in Athens. The Greeks were as surprised as I was and the city shut down in many places. And by that I mean, the public transportation was not running and all public offices were closed. The cafes and bakeries and grocery stores were still open. To celebrate the snow, Katie, Sara, Aubrey, and I (my apartment save for one) went outside and had a snowball fight with a couple of passing Arcadia students and went to a cafe. On the way back we decided to build a snowman with the snow on top of all the cars and ran the pieces up to our apartment. Ελένη, as we called her, didn't last very long, but we did manage to get some pictures with her. The rest of the weekend was a bit sleepy and I spent my time cleaning, organizing, doing schoolwork (yes, I actually have schoolwork here), and working on the largest puzzle ever mass produced. <--- If I haven't mentioned this before, I will discuss it in a later blog.
Snow Day
We actually had a "snow day" from school the following Monday. Well most students did, however, I only have an 8am class on Mondays and my professor lives nearby so we still had class, but the rest of classes were cancelled because of the snow. It was a nice chance to relax and enjoy the snow. The young Greek boys around throwing snowballs at us was less than relaxing, however, but not enough to dampen the unexpected holiday. Unfortunately, the weather did hinder any further exploration of the city, but I will simply have to pick it back up this coming week.
This weekend... Sparta, Argos, and Mycenae.
Monday, February 11, 2008
Delphi
This past weekend most of the Arcadia students went to Delphi. The trip was planned and organized by our Student Services Director so it made our first independent venture smoother and easier than had we done it all ourselves. For those of you not up on your Ancient Greek history (as I am not and have to look these things up before travelling) Delphi was considered by the Ancient Greeks as the center of the world or more colorfully referred to as "the navel of the Earth". There are many ruins (as is typical across much of Greece) including where the Oracle of Apollo sat, a theater, a stadium, a gymnasium, and a sanctuary of Athena. The Oracle of Delphi was supposedly able to communicate with Apollo and people would come from all over to ask the Oracle advice about whether or not to start wars, etc. according to Apollo's mood and what the Oracle saw happening in the future. Speaking in an unknown language, often the Oracle's prophesies and advice had to be interpretted by priests. Seems a bit convenient for the priests if you ask me.
The view from our hotel was amazing, as it was from basically everywhere in Delphi. The town is nestled into the mountainside and it seems a bit treacherous getting there with the sharply curved roads with cliffs at their sides that one must traverse in order to get there, but the danger is worth it. While we were there it was cold, windy, and snowing on and off. Apparently the weather was about as unpleasant in Athens, but being in such a beautiful and historic place helped one forget (if only momentarily) that it was frigid and blustery.
We did not stay in Delphi the entire weekend, as many of us ventured to the seaside town of Itea (don't ask me which sea, I'm not quite sure) for a few hours. While it was rather sleepy while we were there, and just about as cold and windy, the water made for a picturesque backdrop for a quaint, quiet, but friendly little town. A few of us went to check out the local church which was more ornately decorated than any I have seen thus far, and then found our way through a shop or two before settling into a Kafe. In one of the shops, the owner made pleasant conversation with us as he was familiar with Canada and the United States and before we left he offered us all a shot of Ouzo (only three of the seven of us accepted, myself included as I have read it is considered rude to refuse a drink which is considered a sign of hospitality... and quite honestly having a drink of Ouzo with a Greek shopkeeper just seemed like the thing to do while in Greece).
Overall the trip was pleasant and certainly Delphi is a must-see when living in Greece for 4 months. I'm not sure yet where my next trip will be to, but I hope to make many weekend trips throughout the country, as they give a much different (and in my opinion even more enjoyable) perspective of Greek culture and history. I shall let you know where I'm off to next once I've gotten a handle on my schoolwork (it's a little weird to finally have classes) and can put more focus and energy into planning.
Yasou!
The view from our hotel was amazing, as it was from basically everywhere in Delphi. The town is nestled into the mountainside and it seems a bit treacherous getting there with the sharply curved roads with cliffs at their sides that one must traverse in order to get there, but the danger is worth it. While we were there it was cold, windy, and snowing on and off. Apparently the weather was about as unpleasant in Athens, but being in such a beautiful and historic place helped one forget (if only momentarily) that it was frigid and blustery.
We did not stay in Delphi the entire weekend, as many of us ventured to the seaside town of Itea (don't ask me which sea, I'm not quite sure) for a few hours. While it was rather sleepy while we were there, and just about as cold and windy, the water made for a picturesque backdrop for a quaint, quiet, but friendly little town. A few of us went to check out the local church which was more ornately decorated than any I have seen thus far, and then found our way through a shop or two before settling into a Kafe. In one of the shops, the owner made pleasant conversation with us as he was familiar with Canada and the United States and before we left he offered us all a shot of Ouzo (only three of the seven of us accepted, myself included as I have read it is considered rude to refuse a drink which is considered a sign of hospitality... and quite honestly having a drink of Ouzo with a Greek shopkeeper just seemed like the thing to do while in Greece).
Overall the trip was pleasant and certainly Delphi is a must-see when living in Greece for 4 months. I'm not sure yet where my next trip will be to, but I hope to make many weekend trips throughout the country, as they give a much different (and in my opinion even more enjoyable) perspective of Greek culture and history. I shall let you know where I'm off to next once I've gotten a handle on my schoolwork (it's a little weird to finally have classes) and can put more focus and energy into planning.
Yasou!
Thursday, February 7, 2008
The Smaller Things in Life
So I've decided to take this post to give some details of the more minor aspects of Greek life that I fear may be overlooked by my bigger adventures. First let me start with the food...
There has yet to be a piece of Greek food that I have tried that I do not like. Bakeries, Cafes, and Tavernas line the streets basically everywhere you go. The Greek food aside, my apartment and I have started cooking on our own. Never had I really considered myself to be a good cook, or even a cook at all, but here I have managed to put together some rather delicious meals. The most rewarding part about cooking for ourselves is the fact that we put in a lot of effort to get the ingredients. The ever present language barrier presents itself in full force at the Laiki (open-air market) as well as the butcher, and the fact that most packages in the grocery store are all in Greek poses a bit of a challenge. These things aside we have managed quite well and are experimenting with new combinations of food... I believe the trick is olive oil, lots of olive oil.
Have you ever heard the term "Yaya"? Probably. In Greek, yaya is the term for grandmother and also used (at least by us) as a term of endearment for all of the older women walking around Athens. Although they often speak very little English, they are the first to try and help you out and I have heard a number of stories of people being saved by yayas. They aren't afraid to tell people off for you and you always feel safe around them. Their affection is immense, as one girl found out when she was hugged by a yaya after attempting to show her her watch when asked the time (we hadn't learned our numbers at that point). Not only are the yayas wonderful, but the "Papous" as well (grandfathers) who will stop you and tell you stories (in Greek of course) about cats or dogs or whatever you happen to be looking at at the time. It is these small, sometimes daily encounters with the older Greeks that make living here more culturally enriching as they capture "Greek Hospitality" in everything they do and have been the kindest to me and let me practice the most Greek out of all the people I encounter. I'm afraid older people in America do not get quite the same respect as they do here, but as a foreigner, you learn to respect them very quickly.
How many steps do you walk everyday? Some of you more than others. Since I've been here I've walked probably 5,000 steps. Although I wasn't quite sure what to expect about the landscape of Athens, it is certainly far "hillier" than I had assumed. And it seems everywhere worth exploring requires at least 2 flights of stairs. It's a good workout and I don't mind too much, but those last 50 stairs before getting back to my apartment after a day of exploring is defintely tiring. If you get the chance to visit Athens, do some squats before you come and be sure to wear comfortable shoes (although true Athenian women seem to have no problem in heels).
For those of you who have frequented New York City, or any city for that matter may have noticed a "pigeon problem". Here it is not so much of a problem as a catastrophe. They are everywhere! But it seems to me that the Greeks have much greater affection for these "rats with wings" than Americans. Children are not often scolded for trying to play with them, people constantly feed them, and outside of Parliament men offer you food to hold and to take a picture of you with pigeons all over your hands and arms. In fact, animals seem to be a large part of Greek culture. There is a large population of stray dogs living on the streets of the city, but they are not, for the most part, sickly or mangey, instead they are considered more like public pets and are often well-fed and healthy. Cats are the same way; many of them stroll around and people put food out for them. The mentality, I've been told, is that it is more natural for animals to roam freely than for them to be couped up in some small Athenian apartment and pet stores are a relatively new phenomenon that not many people deem necessary nor practical.
On the less random side of life, my apartment has been a wonderful place to live. Besides our adventures in cooking, our near location to the school makes visiting popular with the other students and there is an elementary school across the street from which children wave and yell hello from the windows when we stand on our balcony. I have taken up tea drinking and enjoy sitting in the sun on the balcony with a hot cup of tea and the company of at least one of my entertaining and gregarious flatmates. Although I have not had the best sleep of my life since I arrived, it was been adequate and I am slowly adjusting to the idea that if I want to shower I have to plan in an extra 20 minutes for the hot water heater to heat the water (we have to turn it on and off so as not to burst the pipes). Surprisingly, apartment and city life has not been too hard of an adjustment for me in the grand scheme of life in Athens, and it is certainly a nice little American oasis for us, although we are trying our best to practice our Greek at home too.
I believe that is all for now... just a glimpse at some of the smaller details of life in Greece. This weekend I will be heading to Delphi and I'm sure that I will have plenty to say about that later, so keep checking in.
There has yet to be a piece of Greek food that I have tried that I do not like. Bakeries, Cafes, and Tavernas line the streets basically everywhere you go. The Greek food aside, my apartment and I have started cooking on our own. Never had I really considered myself to be a good cook, or even a cook at all, but here I have managed to put together some rather delicious meals. The most rewarding part about cooking for ourselves is the fact that we put in a lot of effort to get the ingredients. The ever present language barrier presents itself in full force at the Laiki (open-air market) as well as the butcher, and the fact that most packages in the grocery store are all in Greek poses a bit of a challenge. These things aside we have managed quite well and are experimenting with new combinations of food... I believe the trick is olive oil, lots of olive oil.
Have you ever heard the term "Yaya"? Probably. In Greek, yaya is the term for grandmother and also used (at least by us) as a term of endearment for all of the older women walking around Athens. Although they often speak very little English, they are the first to try and help you out and I have heard a number of stories of people being saved by yayas. They aren't afraid to tell people off for you and you always feel safe around them. Their affection is immense, as one girl found out when she was hugged by a yaya after attempting to show her her watch when asked the time (we hadn't learned our numbers at that point). Not only are the yayas wonderful, but the "Papous" as well (grandfathers) who will stop you and tell you stories (in Greek of course) about cats or dogs or whatever you happen to be looking at at the time. It is these small, sometimes daily encounters with the older Greeks that make living here more culturally enriching as they capture "Greek Hospitality" in everything they do and have been the kindest to me and let me practice the most Greek out of all the people I encounter. I'm afraid older people in America do not get quite the same respect as they do here, but as a foreigner, you learn to respect them very quickly.
How many steps do you walk everyday? Some of you more than others. Since I've been here I've walked probably 5,000 steps. Although I wasn't quite sure what to expect about the landscape of Athens, it is certainly far "hillier" than I had assumed. And it seems everywhere worth exploring requires at least 2 flights of stairs. It's a good workout and I don't mind too much, but those last 50 stairs before getting back to my apartment after a day of exploring is defintely tiring. If you get the chance to visit Athens, do some squats before you come and be sure to wear comfortable shoes (although true Athenian women seem to have no problem in heels).
For those of you who have frequented New York City, or any city for that matter may have noticed a "pigeon problem". Here it is not so much of a problem as a catastrophe. They are everywhere! But it seems to me that the Greeks have much greater affection for these "rats with wings" than Americans. Children are not often scolded for trying to play with them, people constantly feed them, and outside of Parliament men offer you food to hold and to take a picture of you with pigeons all over your hands and arms. In fact, animals seem to be a large part of Greek culture. There is a large population of stray dogs living on the streets of the city, but they are not, for the most part, sickly or mangey, instead they are considered more like public pets and are often well-fed and healthy. Cats are the same way; many of them stroll around and people put food out for them. The mentality, I've been told, is that it is more natural for animals to roam freely than for them to be couped up in some small Athenian apartment and pet stores are a relatively new phenomenon that not many people deem necessary nor practical.
On the less random side of life, my apartment has been a wonderful place to live. Besides our adventures in cooking, our near location to the school makes visiting popular with the other students and there is an elementary school across the street from which children wave and yell hello from the windows when we stand on our balcony. I have taken up tea drinking and enjoy sitting in the sun on the balcony with a hot cup of tea and the company of at least one of my entertaining and gregarious flatmates. Although I have not had the best sleep of my life since I arrived, it was been adequate and I am slowly adjusting to the idea that if I want to shower I have to plan in an extra 20 minutes for the hot water heater to heat the water (we have to turn it on and off so as not to burst the pipes). Surprisingly, apartment and city life has not been too hard of an adjustment for me in the grand scheme of life in Athens, and it is certainly a nice little American oasis for us, although we are trying our best to practice our Greek at home too.
I believe that is all for now... just a glimpse at some of the smaller details of life in Greece. This weekend I will be heading to Delphi and I'm sure that I will have plenty to say about that later, so keep checking in.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
The First Week and Many Adventures
Although it has really only been a few days since my last blog post, I have been ridiculously busy. I have been shopping at the Laiki which is an open-air market they have one day a week in at least one place in every neighborhood (there are actually 2 close to me, Tuesday and Friday). It is a great place to practice my Greek and to work on learning numbers, although right now I do feel at risk of being ripped off because I am noticeably American, but most of the vendors are very helpful. It is all fresh fruits and vegetables along with some clothes and other random items. I also ventured to the butcher with a couple of my roommates and he was extremely helpful, especially considering how little English he spoke and the fact that I could say I wanted chicken but not specify a breast rather than a whole chicken. After our little shopping adventures of the day my apartment cooked dinner for ourselves for the first time, and it was quite tasty if I do say so myself.
Our program gave us a little public transportation test in which we had to take the Trolley to
On Thursday we watched the funeral procession for the Archbishop of all of
It has been great getting to know everyone on the trip thus far and they all seem adventurous and outgoing (which is pretty much what I expected of students traveling abroad to Greece) and I had a lot of opportunity to meet some new people and get to know others better on our weekend excursion to Nafplio. It is a city on the coast and there was shopping and cafes by the water with heat lamps to keep you warm while you sit outside. We found this great little store that sells only items made from Olive wood. Our program leaders took us all out to dinner where they set up a sampling of traditional Greek foods, all of which were spectacular and then we headed out for some gelato at a nearby store (it was actually run by Italians, so it was authentic gelato). I have had a wonderful time talking with the “adults” of our program as they have this wealth of knowledge about so much of
Our second day in Nafplio we climbed 999 steps to the fortress Palamidi at the top of a small mountain. The view was again spectacular and the water was such a clear blue. We spent hours walking around and exploring the old fortress/prison/church that resided at the top. After lots of hiking, some picnicking, and a little sunbathing, we walked back down the 999 steps (we actually only counted 908) and stopped at a café to rest our legs which were a little shaky from the walk down. We did a little bit more shopping and then I headed back to the hotel for a nap.
Once refreshed I ventured out for dinner with a bunch of other people, which whittled itself down to a small group of just three other people and myself at a restaurant recommended to us by a woman at the gelato place. There was live music played by two young men on mandolins and an older gentleman on guitar. They sang and many of the Greeks in the restaurant started singing along and clapping. A couple sitting across from us would get up every now and then to dance and really enjoyed how into the music our table of Americans got. They went so far as to have the waiter bring us some wine on them, and I went over to thank them and then asked them to show me how to dance. So the man danced with me in a Greek ballroom type style for one song, and the woman showed me another Greek dance to another song. I was able to talk to them in mostly Greek as they knew only minimal English and they introduced us to the musicians. We stayed until the musicians were done playing and the older gentleman invited us to go and eat with them. So we joined them for some food at a place near by and talked with them (mostly in English, although one spoke no English at all). They were so friendly and polite and although the language barrier was a little bit of a challenge, they spoke enough English for us to have good conversation. It turned out that they guys ventured to
I have to admit, our trip to Nafplio has solidified my love for this country and I have a new desire to learn as much of the language as I can and to visit as many places in and outside of
Monday, January 28, 2008
My first day(s) in Athens
So I've arrived in Athens. My flights went smoothly and while I had to spend a little more than 3 hours waiting in the Athens airport for the buses to take us to our apartments, it was an opportunity to meet some of the people in my program. Now I am moved into my wonderful apartment in the neighborhood of Pangrati in Athens. There is no living room, there are 5 of us living in 2 single rooms and one hostel type room with tables for desks and wardrobes (I'm in the hostel type room), and the kitchen and bathroom are small, but our long balcony expanding the entire length of our apartment with 4 different access points to it makes up for it. Nothing has struck extremely difficult to adjust to yet except for the toilets, which you can not flush toilet paper down because of the old/small piping. My flatmates and I are getting along and hopefully it will stay that way.
Today I had to go with about 20 other students to get a TB test (apparently they changed the rules and ours from the United States don't count) in which they drew a box around in permanent marker and told us not to wash for 2 days, and a chest x-ray. Both for us to get an extension for our Student Visas as they are only good into April. That was a bit of an adventure and a bit of a frustration as well, but it was necessary.
My roommate Katie and I went exploring with our freetime today and found the Olympic Stadium used in both 1895 for the first official Olympics and in 2004 for track events. We can actually see the rings from our apartment and we found a way in and took lots of pictures. From there we could actually see the Acropolis and we did some sightseeing in the National Gardens. We also stumbled upon the changing of the guard, although we don't know what they were guarding. Tonight was our first Greek lessons and my class was very informative. I can now read in Greek (assuming I remember all of the vowel and consonant pairings that change sound) and know a few key phrases to help me shop at the open air market tomorrow.
It looks like I have plenty more adventures in store for me and my roommates seem very adventurous so we will certainly learn all that we can about Athens. Oh, and this weekend we head to Nafplio for our "weekend excursion" and the weekend after we're going to Delphi. Classes start Monday the 4th and I am very excited about them. Internet is really only available in the school building, so I don't know how much I'll be on, but I will write another post in about a week.
Kalinickta (Good Night in Greek)
Love,
Me
Today I had to go with about 20 other students to get a TB test (apparently they changed the rules and ours from the United States don't count) in which they drew a box around in permanent marker and told us not to wash for 2 days, and a chest x-ray. Both for us to get an extension for our Student Visas as they are only good into April. That was a bit of an adventure and a bit of a frustration as well, but it was necessary.
My roommate Katie and I went exploring with our freetime today and found the Olympic Stadium used in both 1895 for the first official Olympics and in 2004 for track events. We can actually see the rings from our apartment and we found a way in and took lots of pictures. From there we could actually see the Acropolis and we did some sightseeing in the National Gardens. We also stumbled upon the changing of the guard, although we don't know what they were guarding. Tonight was our first Greek lessons and my class was very informative. I can now read in Greek (assuming I remember all of the vowel and consonant pairings that change sound) and know a few key phrases to help me shop at the open air market tomorrow.
It looks like I have plenty more adventures in store for me and my roommates seem very adventurous so we will certainly learn all that we can about Athens. Oh, and this weekend we head to Nafplio for our "weekend excursion" and the weekend after we're going to Delphi. Classes start Monday the 4th and I am very excited about them. Internet is really only available in the school building, so I don't know how much I'll be on, but I will write another post in about a week.
Kalinickta (Good Night in Greek)
Love,
Me
Friday, January 25, 2008
PreDeparture
Yasou!
That's a friendly "hello" in Greek. I've been learning a few phrases here and there, but my real foreign language education will begin when I arrive in Athens. I leave Saturday, January 26th at approximately 6:25pm and arrive in Athens (after stopping in London) at 1:35pm on Sunday, January 27th (their time). There is a 7 hour time difference and I won't have internet in my apartment, so keeping in touch with me might be a bit of a challenge, but don't worry I'll be checking my e-mail and facebook when I can. I will also have a phone there, and I'll post my international number when I get it. Don't expect to hear from me for the first week or two.
Here's what's on tap for after I arrive in Greece. Orientation for the first 4 days which will include getting familiar with Athens, transportation, and shopping (of course). Then a "Weekend Excursion" to I don't know where. Then classes begin February 4th. I'll probably post again after that.
Just a reminder, I love you all and will miss you terribly! Don't hesitate to write!
Kalispera! <-- Good Afternoon in Greek
~Amanda
That's a friendly "hello" in Greek. I've been learning a few phrases here and there, but my real foreign language education will begin when I arrive in Athens. I leave Saturday, January 26th at approximately 6:25pm and arrive in Athens (after stopping in London) at 1:35pm on Sunday, January 27th (their time). There is a 7 hour time difference and I won't have internet in my apartment, so keeping in touch with me might be a bit of a challenge, but don't worry I'll be checking my e-mail and facebook when I can. I will also have a phone there, and I'll post my international number when I get it. Don't expect to hear from me for the first week or two.
Here's what's on tap for after I arrive in Greece. Orientation for the first 4 days which will include getting familiar with Athens, transportation, and shopping (of course). Then a "Weekend Excursion" to I don't know where. Then classes begin February 4th. I'll probably post again after that.
Just a reminder, I love you all and will miss you terribly! Don't hesitate to write!
Kalispera! <-- Good Afternoon in Greek
~Amanda
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