Thessaloniki

The week following the Orthodox Easter we had a break from classes. During this vacation I spent a few days relaxing in Athens and then headed to Thessaloniki with Katie and Kelly. The appeal of Thessaloniki is that it is the second largest city in all of Greece (second only to, you guessed it, Athens). While we did not have a lot of time there, we saw everything there was to see. We visited the White Tower which was at one time a prison and rests along the coast, a replica of the Agia Sophia in Turkey, the Arch of Galeus, the Rotunda which was first a church, then a mosque, and now again a church, the Agio Demitrio, and the Museum of Byzantine Culture.

The White Tower wasn't open while we were there so we were not able to climb it, but from the outside it is impressive and stands very much on its own along the water. Similarly, the Agia Sophia was not open, but from the outside it is impressive, although not nearly as well maintained from behind and the sides as one would expect. The Arch of Galeus has beautiful frescos all around the base and its height is immense. The Rotunda is under severe construction so it did not quite have the grandeur I expect it does when fully restored. The Agio Demitrio was my favorite stop of the day. It is a grandiose cathedral with flowers everyone and beautiful icons and adornments. It was in no way tacky and had a real brightness to it that is often lacking in the churches in Greece. We were able to see the relics of Saint Demitrius and get some holy water from the golden holy water tap by the front altar. The museum was a bit of a rushed experience as it was about to close, but the coins, jewelry, icons, and costumes of Byzantine times were beautiful and gives on the sense of how beautiful and romantic the time period was.

We ate delicious dinners at great restaurants and made our way to a renowned bakery to get some tsureki, which were utterly delectable. Our hotel was very picturesque from the outside and was very beautiful at one point, I'm sure, but the rooms were a bit... well it's hard to explain really. High ceilings and beautiful molding, but blankets with cigarette burns and dull paint, but a very clean feel and smell. The mixed opinions were not an issue as we spent little time there and only one night. To get home we wound up taking an overnight train (without sleeping cars). Thankfully I can sleep on almost any moving vehicle and was seated next to someone who did not bother me with chitchat and kept his distance.

I hope to one day go back to Thessaloniki as I feel my time there was cut a bit short and it is a clean and energetic city. But I am very happy I got there for the time I did and it was a relaxing but busy vacation.

Easter in Athens

As most of you know, Greece is strongly identified with the Greek Orthodox Church. This means that religious holidays are national events. Easter is no exception. Easter in Athens was quite a spectacle for days. Although I did not experience it myself, on Good Friday there is a large procession at night throughout the streets of the city center in which they carry around a beflowered tomb of Christ. Saturday is another large event. During the day a small procession comes through the city of Athens with a flame leading the way. That flame is a flame that is the “light of Jerusalem” and is used at the evening service. At 11pm on Saturday a very large church service is held at most churches. I went to the service held at the biggest cathedral in Athens. It was so densely populated, that unless you were some dignitary or high religious leader, there was no way to get into the actual sanctuary. While speakers send the melodious sound of the priests’ chanting into the square, local Greeks were using the time more as a social gathering than a religious experience. The most intriguing display of the evening was the blatant combination of church and state. Upon the arrival of the President of Greece, about a half an hour late for the service, he received a military salute and a band struck up to announce his entrance. The cacophony of the precision of a military band with the fluidity of celebratory chanting was unexpected and unique. All I could think was that such a thing would never happen in the United States, a country that perpetually tries to avoid and argues over the combination of politics and religion.

Halfway through the service the light of Jerusalem is brought out into the middle of the square so that everyone may light their candle from the flame. Apparently the tradition is to light a candle and take it all the way home with you and make the sign of the cross in front of your house in order to bless it for the year. Most people left after receiving the light, but the service continued on for an hour or so following.

The next morning my parents, roommates Sara and Katie, and Katie’s mother and grandmother, and I all went to the morning service. It was a beautiful service with the priests dressed in their best vestments and flowers covering the church. The smell of lilies and incense filled the air and the sound of chanting was soothing. Although the service was entirely in Greek and I only understood bits and pieces of it, it still possessed a certain power and joy that only the Easter holiday can create.

After the service our group went to a local taverna for some traditional lamb roasted on a spit. It was delicious and the spirit of the holiday was evident among everyone in the restaurant. Overall, Easter in Greece was an amazing experience and awe-inspiring as one can see an entire nation (more accurately, the majority of a nation) joined by one strong belief. This type of unity does not exist in the United States, and from my experience that is both a positive and a negative thing about each country. I was very glad to get to experience such a big event in the course of Greek life as it has become a part of my life.

Sorry for No Blogs

Sorry for my delay in posting new blogs lately... be patient, in the next day or so I will post about Easter and my trip to Thessaloniki and one more to wrap up my stay here in Athens, Greece.