Thessaloniki

The week following the Orthodox Easter we had a break from classes. During this vacation I spent a few days relaxing in Athens and then headed to Thessaloniki with Katie and Kelly. The appeal of Thessaloniki is that it is the second largest city in all of Greece (second only to, you guessed it, Athens). While we did not have a lot of time there, we saw everything there was to see. We visited the White Tower which was at one time a prison and rests along the coast, a replica of the Agia Sophia in Turkey, the Arch of Galeus, the Rotunda which was first a church, then a mosque, and now again a church, the Agio Demitrio, and the Museum of Byzantine Culture.

The White Tower wasn't open while we were there so we were not able to climb it, but from the outside it is impressive and stands very much on its own along the water. Similarly, the Agia Sophia was not open, but from the outside it is impressive, although not nearly as well maintained from behind and the sides as one would expect. The Arch of Galeus has beautiful frescos all around the base and its height is immense. The Rotunda is under severe construction so it did not quite have the grandeur I expect it does when fully restored. The Agio Demitrio was my favorite stop of the day. It is a grandiose cathedral with flowers everyone and beautiful icons and adornments. It was in no way tacky and had a real brightness to it that is often lacking in the churches in Greece. We were able to see the relics of Saint Demitrius and get some holy water from the golden holy water tap by the front altar. The museum was a bit of a rushed experience as it was about to close, but the coins, jewelry, icons, and costumes of Byzantine times were beautiful and gives on the sense of how beautiful and romantic the time period was.

We ate delicious dinners at great restaurants and made our way to a renowned bakery to get some tsureki, which were utterly delectable. Our hotel was very picturesque from the outside and was very beautiful at one point, I'm sure, but the rooms were a bit... well it's hard to explain really. High ceilings and beautiful molding, but blankets with cigarette burns and dull paint, but a very clean feel and smell. The mixed opinions were not an issue as we spent little time there and only one night. To get home we wound up taking an overnight train (without sleeping cars). Thankfully I can sleep on almost any moving vehicle and was seated next to someone who did not bother me with chitchat and kept his distance.

I hope to one day go back to Thessaloniki as I feel my time there was cut a bit short and it is a clean and energetic city. But I am very happy I got there for the time I did and it was a relaxing but busy vacation.